Mazda Protege QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I was driving and stop at the store and when I tried to get on the road again it made a pop kinda sound and would not go anywhere?.
How do I know the right ecm for my car.? Is there certain numbers that have to match or something.?
I changed the bulb over licenseplate and still novt working
The key did not break in igination. Its the key it self broke in my pant pocket. Can i get another key and were and about how much
when the engine warm up and I press clutch pedal the engine decelerate
No pwer to fuel pump. Relays seem to check out. Have spark. fuel pump not kicking on when go t sat art car resulting in a crank no start problem. All of this after I hit a bump in road and car died
I was going 60mph on the freeway and heard a loud revving sound, I then noticed as I pressed the accelerator, my car wouldn't go any faster. I got off the freeway and got onto the street, my car would keep making that same sound every time I would hit 40 almost as if it wouldn't change to the next gear or something... My car only has 106k miles on it.
I would also need to warm up my car for like 30 min. to an hour in order for it to actually move. Now my overdrive light is blinking continuously even when I push the button on the shifter and my check engine light stays on. Please, I need to know what's wrong koz it's the only transportation I have. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!
My husband just replaced the clutch on my car. We have no manual and he does not know how much of the trans. fluid to put back into it. He does not know how much and he has put in it out of the 3 quart jug I bought. PLEASE get back to me soon!!!
We checked a few things but are not sure. It hesitate to stop sometimes and jerks when you put it in gear to drive. The muffler noise it makes is lowered when driving and it accelerate but does not go pass 30-40 mph. The more stops it makes while driving it slowly gets worse and it smokes in the back of the engine.
vehicle goes into fail safe , and hen I would have to switch off and restart inorder to reset the PCM
I downshift but it still gets slower & slower. I had to drive in 2nd at about 20 mph on a 6 to 7% uphill grade. Doesn't use oil, runs great in the city.
Already did the timing on it more then ones all I fixed was the water pump on it..
if the water pump, front engine seals, drive belts,idlers, and tensioner along with the belt are in good shape and still good do I have to still pay to get it fixed?
The drivers side of the motor. Now a week later I'm driving down the road as I slow down to a yield sign the car dies!! It will turn over but not crank! Please help me ???
The air conditioner doesn't work due to an electrical problem. The compressor and relay work fine.
I've tried different crank position sensors but cannot locate the cam position sensor which sounds like the proble. Im lost
Could someone give a straight answer on the question, I already know the fan does not work, I just need to know the costs parts, labor, taxes and time involved in doing this repair.
I understand there are a few air flow sensors involved in the operation of signaling the PCM to allow fuel to flow to the injectors. Would the most likely be the EGR Valve Control Solenoid/motor, or would the Vacuum Control Valve be likely to fail.
New coil pack, plugs, wires. Still running rough and didn't help. What else can be the problem?
It hesitates when I accelerate from a stop, I looked it up, but other scenarios I read about include the check engine light coming on, but mine has not come on yet, any ideas?
My car is automatic, when turned on and I put it in drive mode to go forward automatically switches overdrive light flashing and no running forward. I turn it off immediately and I come on and the problem is going. This makes it all day every time I boot drive. It can be and how do I fix? I'm a girl and not much these things.