Dodge D350 Questions
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It used to stall only once n a while but now it's all the time and lately even when I let off the gas it will try to stall. Sometimes I can give it gas and catch it befor it dies. But it getting to be more challenging to keep it from stalling.
Tried to crank it nothing had to run a jumper wire from fuel pump to hot side of battery then starts but only way to turn off is undo wireany help out there???
I have replaced fuel filter, battery, starter, distributor cap and points, no fire going to coil, what else could it be?
The voltmeter when up to 18 volts and blow up my Altima battery I replace the voltage regulator but it's still not going down.
i have a problem i have to pump my breaks to make them work
Where is it located? I cannot find it in the engine compartment and the only place left concealed is the dashboard and firewall behind it. Also have to ask, even though I was sold a freestanding VR, where is the "black box", computer, auto switching box or whatever you wish to call it. I have seen reports that this VR is a part of that and that there are more than one type of electrical system on vans of this year. The Alternator box said it was for external regulator and new alternator did not help with problem of NOT CHARGING. The VR I have is a 1" thick 4x5" metal can with one two wire connector and filled with black epoxy on the back side.
This 90 350 van may be going to scrap before I replace the ECM due to the previous experience with the diesel truck ECM, Dodge dealer and Chrysler in general. If so I will be looking for an older vehicle with no computer, most likely a simple carb and ignition system that I can fix. I have had a lot better luck with Ford and Chevy vehicles as above and would not EVEN consider a new vehicle today because the most simple design is almost always the most reliable in my 64 yr experience. Wish I could find a diesel van but have never heard of one so? Maybe a Caddie or Lincoln W/trailer(s) as these have served me well before. Maybe I'll search out a VW microbus as that is one of the most simple, practical, economical and dependable designs I have ever seen. Just hate to give up the size and comfort of the big dodge but am really tired of Dodge trucks that are the real Fix or Repair Daily vehicles from my experience. Any suggestions?
suspicious 2x3" metal "can" on firewall front connects to batt..but no voltage on any of the other 3 wires? Saw post about engine control circuit inside firewall? in engine comp't? under dash? inculding regulator? what does it look like? Dies when either batt cable pulled. Any other parts in charging system? Heard that cables loose to dash voltmeter could be the problem? This is my home electric generator w/big deep cycle batt & inverters. Any other quick diagnostic tests? 12V to ground on all 3 alt terminals OK. Connectors cleaned/replaced. Multipin plug in wiring on front of firewall kills engine when unplugged.
Its a 91 d350 all new charging system parts. Ive rewired the regulator and alternator. 12v signal from coil to regulator and then to one of the fields then regulator to the other field. Ive got it wired right so idk whats next....
is it something that can easily be done at home
new fuel pump/screen/filter.will only run for a miniute if u dump some fuel down tbi.fuel pump relay? IM FUC**NG LOST!!!!
How many quarts does the transmission hold
What are the fuel key dimensions for this vehicle
The pickup is a 1979 dodge the engine is a 383 I need the engine replaced. The Truck is in Lake City, FL. How do I find someone reliable who can replace the engine? how much should something like that cost.
headlights not working on 91 b350 van the fuse is ok is it the circuit breaker if si=o were is it located.
power window motor turns but will not engage and roll the window down or up. HELP!!
I was driving on the highway when all of a sudden my check engine light began to flash and i was loosing power.. I lost all speed and was forced to pull over to the median.. My fuel pump was on the way out so after being towed to my house I went ahead and bought the almost $300.00 part.. Changed it and found that I had no spark... Knowing that everything on the truck electrical wise was new, I went ahead and ordered the single board engine computer... I just finished assembling my truck due to the fact that since it broke down, I had the great idea of painting it while I waited on the computer to come in... Bottom line the computer did not fix my problem and I have a very pretty truck that is still broke down... I do know that I used to be able to pull the codes by clicking the ignition on and off three times and that the check engine light would blink at me... Ever since this problem the check engine light will not come on... It is not the bulb... ANY IDEAS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED....... Thanks a MILLION to whoever helps!!!!! Bad ground?
oil capacity for oil change
Thanks again valleyautotech for your recent answers. I think I have found the problem with th 92 D350 5.9L eng. I was cleaning the intake manifold and heads when I decided to go ahead and pull the pushrods and lifters out. Everything looked good. I still had a feeling that the timing was just not right due to the fact that at idle it would jump a degree every few rotations and jump 15-20 degrees at high rpm. Since the lifters were not in I had a straight shot at the cam. I took a ratchet and rotated the crank back and forth multiple times and as soon as I turned it bam the cam would rotate as to tell me that the timing chain is good. Just as I was ready to assemble everything I noticed that the pinion gear on the oil pump did not move as abruptly as the cam did. I could rotate the crank an eighth of an inch or more and then the gear would catch. I called two dodge dealers and both had the part in stock. My question is by changing the oil pump gear should I in turn remove the cam and change that gear or cam as well, or is the cam gear made of harder steel causing the oil pump gear to wear instead? Thanks again I appreciate it! Mike
Thank you valleytech for your former response. My 92 D350 was in turn not blowing by the intake manifold. It was actually leaking out of the head where the EGR valve crosses over. Would this cause my maintenance light to stay on? The truck runs great after I adjusted the timing that was 20 degrees off. I pulled the fuel tank and found the fuel pump 50% clogged with aluminum. I am in the process of putting the intake back on and want to know if there is anything else that I can check. My truck like I said runs good but out of the blue the truck will backfire and stall any ideas? It does it enough to where I can not drive the truck. I vacuum checked the EGR and it opens under vacuum. I have also put new plugs, cap, rotor, egr pressure switch, purge switch, coil, breather, fuel filter, o2 sensor, etc. I have a feeling that whatever is keeping the maintenance light on is causing my problem (not the check engine light). Could it be the timing chain? It starts right up and idles like a champ. the timing does advance about 15 to 20 degrees when floored but is at 10 degrees btc at idle. I also checked the distributer and it is just halls effect so I do not think that anything is wrong with it. Out of ideas thanks alot!!! Mike
I need to know the valve clearance specs for a 1992 Dodge D350 5.9L gas engine. Also, the #4 cyl. was blowing out through the intake manifold. Is it common on this vehicle? I will check to see if I have a stuck valve once I find out the valve clearance. Thanks, Mike