Problem Description and Possible Solution
A no crank or no start condition may be the result of a theft system fault. Our technicians tell us that replacing the wireless control module should correct this issue.
Average mileage: 94,303 (13,000–300,000)
74 people reported this problem
I had this problem and can easily be fixed by locating the ingnition fuse, pulling it out and putting it right back in. This resets the anti theft ignition lock which is sometimes sensitive to static electricity. Do not buy a new control module!!!
When I put key in ignition it will turn but want start. Just had battery put in a year a so ago. No warning light come on to give me a sign. What could be the problem.
I was parked in a lot with my car running and it just shut off. A day later it would not even turn over, however the radio and lights still worked. This happened once before and my mechanic had to replace the relay wires. Now it is doing it again!!
No crank and no start. I have only had it a year and a half and this is the second time I'm getting it fixed for this problem.
sometime I turn my key and all I get is a clicking sound like a relay is clicking and then I let go of the key while it is clicking then it starts by it self,or I can be driving down the road and my battery light comes on ,so I stop turn it off and get the clicking again sometime it will work and sometime it won't,can anyone help me
had new key cut and programed, took car home and after two days nothing , won't start no power to the starter
The car doesn't turn over, everything else works locks, Ac, radio, remote locks and unlocks. No crank battery and harness were replaced issue still is occurring.
'No Start' but will crank. Had been in 3 yrs. ago leaving us stranded but luckily warranty was still good. This morning it happened to my wife at home. After work I disconnected the neg. cable for about 10 min. and had no success with starting. So for giggles I hit the panic button (to engage the security system) and inserted key to the start position. It started and I hit the panic button again to deactivate it. Worked like a charm and both factory keys worked. Hope this helps someone. I'm a mechanic by trade and have checked for TSB's since I had the issue before. I'm happy with the car in general, but will probably never by this type again. My main source now is the Ram 1500 sport 5.9, wife gets the Caliber.
no start no crank one day yes one day no dealer can not pinpoint problem. happened at dealer also
2011 Caliber, turn on, key sticks in on position and cranks, no fire in engine.
My alternator went out this last September (2015) and would not start. I got it into the Dodge Caliber dealer in Moses Lake, WA shortly after. It was working fine. I also had the battery replaced a year and a half ago (Fall 2014). Now it is not starting again. It has happened 4 or 5 times so far. Every time I was able to have it jumped, it would take a long time to have it charged, but it would at least start. But after a couple days, or if I didn't drive it for a day it would happen again. I took the battery to Napa Auto Parts and had it charged and checked out. It is perfectly fine. My car started afterwards and the engine light eventually went away. Now it is a week later and my car wouldn't start again this morning. Everything comes on but there is clicking and it won't turn over.
same no start or no fuel or sounds click even not turn over it wireless control module that problem it suckers from dodge
Unplugged ignition fuse (#4) and replaced it.
Car wont start, has to be jumped, tried all the tricks listed, battery is good, alternator is good.
starts sometime but not others going in to the shop again. After reading reports tried the unlock button opened and closed driver door and it started. Looing for a new car and not a Dodge
Took to dealer, they said the car was not reading the Sim Key, and said it was the key. They charged me $286, I told them it made no since, because both keys did not work. They said no this is the problem. Guess what it is in the shop again same problem.
The antitheft light is on, and is draining my battery.
my wife got a bad key message after driving home from work one night, we called a lock smith and he was able to come out and reset the FOBs which worked. it happened a month later, called locksmith again but it didnt work this time.
after doing some research over the course of a week, i learned that the problem is most likely the Wireless Ignition Node. I was able to reset the WIN by removing the fuse and putting it back in. It now works just fine.... for the time being.
please try this method before spending hundreds-thousands of dollar replacing different parts.
It was temporarily reset - took it to a dealer for the WCM they did not feel the WCM needed to be replaced
dealer could not fix or find cause