2003 Mitsubishi Galant Questions
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My lights began to flicker, then stop working. The power windows stopped working as well. This all happened when I tried changing the battery post myself.
Ok there is a plug right in front on manifold what is it called
Already changed speed sensor
My car did not pass inspection for several reasons the P0102 code for the MAF sensor which I replaced but the car ran worse put old one back on. But there was 4 readiness monitors incomplete too: EGR sys 02 sensor catalyst evap sys would that be because of my other problem above?
My left rear wheel asm has a stud broken off.
Will this require a new hub asm.
Have a p421 code i believe
is this related to remote not opening the doors or something else
Who: 2003 Mitsubishi Galant Es 4cyl.
1. Whiny noise high pitch when the accelerator is pressed.
Action1: (Shop said it was unfounded)
Action 2: I tune it out with the radio
2. I started hearing a rattle and then it completely started rattling.
Action1: added more engine oil 10/30 and it seemed to stop for awhile.
Action 2: added full quart of auto trans fluid.
3. I took it in because I did not want to deal with the hassle of fluid swap. I don't understand why it would be so damn low.
My car has been running good. Until now.
As of 0202 today
It has supposedly
1. transmission service
2. Midas oil changed and fluid swapped
3. Muffler shop replaced the front cat with manifold but removed the head shield
4. New radiator due to leaking
5. New 02sensor waterpump and timingbelt alternator
No codes pop up and no icons on the dash.
However I have placed about 7,000 miles since April and the work above was done in June.
There is no fluid leaking nor seeping anywhere.
It's been driving okay I never go above 3500rpms. I was entering this evening the on ramp which is not even steep and it got to 40mph and choked. It got stuck at 3500rpm and would not go past 45MPH.
I ended up getting off the next exit and coasting it . It had no problem speeding up to 50downhill and the got stuck at 55 and would not go faster rather it slowed down. After that on flat 30-40was the fastest. I parked it and added the 1qt transmission fluid and the rattling continued. . I hear the rattling from the front cat. I also checked for codes on the OB2 and nothing. Voltage check verified 13.88v for my alternator which is what is marked last time the shop looked at it. The transmission mount looks without removing all ok it's not doing the clicking rattling.
Do I add more transmission fluid? Will that help? This is my only car. I don't understand why it's having a hard time shifting from 2K to 2500 to 3K to 3500 rpms and the same for 40.
It got me down highway 1 twice in the last two weeks round trip plus SF... And countless times into solano area. If I let it sit a day will it make it better?
What can I do to trouble shoot this so at least I can get to work?
I replaced the switch, that did not fix it.The bulbs are still good.
The bulbs look like they are still good!
bought this car from dealer in 06,trying to sell,had a potential buyer who brought to his mechanic,and noticed a lot of rust on gas and brake lines
this car was bought used from adealer,do not live by the water,trying to sell it,and noticed this problem by a potential buyer
My car had a recent timing belt change, coolant flush and water pump replacement. Since then, the heating system is not working as expected. On internal roads, the air coming in is mostly cool or cold depending on the temperature outside (at the highest heat setting), on the highway, it does start heating up after some time but the heating is very mild (think warm at the highest heat). The mechanics who changed the timing belt say that it's an issue with some valve which isn't opening completely and the dashboard might have to be opened up completely to fix it, everything else in the car looks fine to them. Any suggestions?