Had no warning of a problem. Second gear went then third then first and finally reverse. Had it towed home. Now two days later all gears work. What is going on and is it safe to drive?

I checked the oils water battery could it be the starter

Goes up to 4 on rpm gauge before shifting. Was fine driving to work that morning but started on the way home. Brother in law put on diagnostic and says it's not the transmission but a sensor.

Thought is was motor mount. Engine dips when put into gear but also rear end is making a clicking metal sound when trying to go. Feels and sounds like I am dragging a bike under my car.

Until it only comes on when it's switched to number four! Something to do with capacitor? Sylenoid? What part do I need to replaced and where it's located?

I just had the ignition housing assembly changed out and 2 recalls done at the dealer.Recalls on the electric power steering assist which they reprogrammed the power control module and ignition control module second recall was the Engine cover modification safety recall where they modified Engine cover and installed a kit.After having all this done I now have #2&3 bad coil packs and plugs.But No Check engine lights come on at all.I've never had these problems with it sounding like it wants to kill at idle or runs ruff and bucks after I get going.This didn't never had this problem til after they I got back from dealer.Since my check engine light doesn't come on like it should could it be something they did when reprogramming computers for recall or the Engine Modification recall??? It ran good before just don't understand.Thanks for any advice and help!!!

I've been having intermittent starting problems.I changed out ignition switch, coil antenna sensor and no change.had starter checked with meter it wasn't getting voltage. Took starter out and tested at shop it tested good.So We assumed no voltage is getting to starter from relay or sensor or switch.Battery good altI good.Locksmith said key lock and keys are good.Took it to dealer they said ignition housing assembly is bad.My question is what does this housing have to do with the Starting of the engine? Is there a main ground that is attached or power source that cranks engine? ?? I thought the Housing just holds switch key cylinder and sensor.I've never gotten into a wreak or never was ruff with steering wheel.I hope someone can explain this to me clearly.The housing comes with the switch.dealer says I don't need the other parts I can use same ones.Please any help would be appreciated.

I've used one new key for about 5 years then I started having problems with it starting only when it wants to.So I used second key then worked fine until 8 months ago it did the same thing as first key.only starts when it felt like it and when it did crank over it ran beautiful!No dieing out nothing just when I stop it then took forever to start.The last 3 weeks has become harder to start.So I had a locksmith look at my key lock and it's all good.Then I bought a ignition switch from dealer and a coil antenna sensor changed those out and the same problem.so I just put the original two parts back in.I had the starter tested with a meter for voltage and no voltage so I had starter removed and took it to be tested it tested good.No current or voltage seems to be reaching starter from main things like switch, starter relay etc to crank it.I also checked relay only by testing fuse box which is fine took out relay and put back in there is no way of testing the starter relay unless I ordered a new one which I didn't do.I checked all fuses related to starting all are fine.My pats security theft light is working like it should there is no fast flashing which will indicate a key trqnsponder issue.My key seems to work fine and unlocks/locks good.All my dash lights work like it should and no check engine lights come on.I've never seen a vehicle do this ever.when I try to start it I can only hear the fuel kick in like it should and a little clicking sound from the black fuse box where relay.My battery/altinter are both good.What else could be the problem? Could it be crank shaft, Trans sensor etc? Thanks for reading this.I know it's long and Thanks for any help you can provide!

for several days it would crank after a few tries. starter is turning over. it's like there is no power from switch to starter. it's not cranking at all

Madza BT 50 2008
Hi, had the compressor replaced in it about 2 weeks ago. when the weather is cool the aircon works great and blows out ice cold air but when the weather is hot the air con clicks on and off every 5-6 seconds what is wrong with it.

My icon of the wrench comes on meaning the power train/ throttel control. I am getting a diagnostic but a prelim said an oil change problem?

the thermostate isn't sticking

Trying to replace the shift knob, and I can't figure out how to remove the old one. Usually they just unscrew. But I've tried everything I can think of to get this one off.

I hear a loud noise coming from the front end of my mazda tribute around where the belts are. When you press the gas it takes a min to catch speed.

I had to perform a repair in the front of my 2008 tribute and when I try to start only the head ligths goes on, any of the panel system turns on, no switch no nothing.
How can I get an electrical diagram of the main system?