I have recently had problems with my truck running. I replaced the timing belt, water pump, fuel pump, battery & 175amp max fuse. Each repair has gotten me a day of running only to stop again. Now I have no lights on the panel & it will not start. What could be wrong now?

doesn't crank

Riding along all is OK then it stalls also starts rough and eng light on then runs ok

reaper please help it has 4500 miles

So my brake lights work but my running tail lights won't work. I was swapping out fuses so it could be that but I filled all the fuse spots with 15 amp fuses which shouldn't be a problem. The fuses I replaced were only in the side panel and I haven't looked under the hood yet. I'm really just curious if anyone knows the exact fuse spots that control lights. I couldn't find them in my manual.

After I drive for a couple of minutes they start working.
Also the door ajar light and the dome light stays on but will also go out after I drive the truck down the road.
These problems are becoming more consistent.

Had smoke coming from behind the timing cover. Temp gage never read hot. Oil is not milky color.

its only on one sindler

4th time in 2 months. when the clutch is pressed, key turned, nothing happens except the dash lights and sounds . #1 sears said battery cables were loose. #2 mazda replaced terminals and soldered cables to terminals. #3 mazda rest fuel cutoff switch after tow, couldnt duplicate issue, had them replace clutch safety switch assembly. #4 i replaced ignition switch. truck still wont turn over.

I'm looking for the average span of time to do the repairs.

like it started but then immediately starts coughing and sputtering while I work the gas pedal trying to keep it from dyeing. After full minute or more of coughing, shaking, sputtering the engine suddenly starts revving up and a little while later will idle fine and you have no more problems as long as the engine stays running. Took it to the Mazda dealer and his service said: system scan code set for AIC valve, Rpl valve and reprogram PCM per techline. The idle ARI contr cost $250 but DIDNOT help the starting problem. He said the next possible cause would be the changing the timing belt and that would cost $400. Didn't do it yet. Any thoughts on this problem?

what would cause it to run fullboard while shifting gears