2000 Mazda 626 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I live in a small town where the car performs fine, even up & down steep hills, but after I've been driving on the interstate for 25 or 30 minutes it begins to shake & jerk. The RPM's will go up suddenly, as if I've mashed the gas pedal to the floor and then it will jerk and act as if it's going to stall. If I turn the engine off for a few minutes it will do OK for a bit and then start all over again. I know it may be hard to diagnose the problem but any help you can offer would be appreciated. I'm a single, middle-aged female who lives alone so I need to keep this car going as long as possible, at least until I can get it paid for!
Mechanic changed cats, brakes, 2 sensors, checked vacumes are OK, engine is good..Car still misfires, feel like it wants to stall and dose from time to time...Can it be the computer it self.. Mechanic said it could be the computer,,,can that be it. I spent $600. already. Please help!!!
The car will start but won't stay running. I believe the pump went bad because I let someone use it and they drone it n empty all the time. I'm sure that's why te fuel pump went bad. Is there something I'm missing or by them running it ion empty messed u something else up? I can't afford to talet it to a mechanic as I'm disabled and can't afford the extra money at this time. I've told the person over and over again about driving my car on e. I've been told I was stupid and that's not true. I may be a girl but I'm not stupid. Now their driving my bronco and the same is going on. They put enough gas in it and always keep it on 1/8 or less and I'm worried my truck is going to get tore up and I have a diseasel that their doing the same thing to it and I was Tols It's a lot worse on a diseasel. Am I right abuout that driving on e is bad for the vehicle? And why when I replaced the fuel pump, filter, and test is in not running. It will start bit won't stay running. Am I doing something wrong or could something elaw be wrong? Please any advice with help. . Thank you,
Trisca Hilman. Thereally is a code and I think It's 0900. I looked it us and it had something to do with the fuel system bit it was Montana should so I don't really remember. I knew it was 0p00 or 0900
I was trying to clean the throttle body (and eventually the EGR valve) on my 2000 Mazda 626 ES V6.
I got into the throttle body, and noticed that the gasket was virtually black and the top part disintegrated the second I opened the manifold.
I tried to remove the whole throttle body (to get to the valve easier) and couldn't quite get it lose. I think the coolant hose below the throttle body was still attached.
It was getting late, so i resigned to just leaving it, putting everything back and getting a new gasket to install later when I pull it apart again to clean everything for sure.
However, when I put everything back and started the car, I got this awful idle: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3OMmL31IzRHRjVPQ0FjQ0xSQ2c/view
My guess would be that there is a vacuum leak (because of the gasket) which is causing the rough idle, or maybe the throttle valve got stuck with the buildup (there was quite a lot, as my car has 230k miles) and can't move as it had before I opened the throttle body up?
Or maybe because I didn't retape the intake manifold there is a vacuum leak there (I was going to retape it after putting a new gasket on).
Reading all of the other posts, I realize that I may not have had to remove the entire throttle body to clean it, but that wouldn't solve the problem of the gasket.
As an aside, I gave the throttle body a little effort when trying to get it off... potentially jerking the throttle cable wouldn't cause this, would it?
This is a bit scary for a novice like myself and any help would me much, much appreciated.
I had to briefly reverse and drive my car in the driveway, and it didn't seem to lose power, but the idle was definitely pulsing and rough.
The car would also start up fine and sound fine for the first few seconds, then the pulse would slowly kick in. Lastly, I might have inadvertently touched the air bypass screw, but I later tightened it all the way and loosened it as much as I could with the same result.
Thank you so much,
i just replaced the timing belt on the car everything lined up perfectly, also replaced fuel pump that was bad. i tried turning it over cranks but will not start put starter fluid in throttle body and tried starting it again but failed once again went to muffler and smelt only starter fluid and no gas, but i checked the fuel lines its getting gas to the injectors and all cylinders have spark, but the car wont start. if anyone could please help me i would really appreciate it. thank you.
Replaced spark plugs(ngk iridiums) wires air filter and fuel filter. Also cleaned egr, egr ports in the intake, TB, and maf. Ran great for thirty minutes. Cel is still flashing. Oil smells like gas. Doesn't smoke. Won't go over 2500 rpms after being driven awhile(feels like its flooding)
However if I move the shift foto park to drive back to revese and then back to neutral and restart the engine from neutral lights goes off.
Can anyone recommend a low-cost scan tool that will have a readiness monitor for state emissions and do live data scan and do abs and airbag.
I will explain this for the last timeSent one head out to be resurfaced did not do the other one now the temperature gauge climbs slowly to hot when you turn the heater blower motor on in the car the temperature gauge will slowly go back to normal turn the heater blower motor off the temperature gauge climbs back up to hot there is absolutely no clogging in the cooling system is nothing wrong with the radiator brand-new thermostat and both reader fans are working properly since I did not to the other had I wonder if there is a crack in it where combustion is pushing back up into the cooling system and making the car overheat can anyone answer this question properly in and leave me to the right direction or how to check for combustion blowing back into the cooling system.
Sent one head out to be resurfaced. Put it back together and now the temperature gauge will run normal for a little while and it will slowly claim up to hot position the only way to temperature gauge will come back down to normal by touring the heater motor on in the car the temperature gauge returns to normal. Turn the heater blower motor off the temperature gauge slowly climbs back up to the red-hot I am wondering if it's a combustion problem on the other had how do you determine this or is there another answer