1999 Lexus RX300 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
This vehicle has 250k miles but engine was replaced by Lexus at 100k. At approx. 140k car began to idle/run rough and not able to go into overdrive (OD)and bad exhaust/fuel smell. Had oxygen sensors replaced and problem went away for approx. 3 mos. but now back...had a check of codes and came back with the following --P0300, P0305, P0304 and P0446. What exactly do these codes represent and they pinpoint the real problem or just a starting point? I should also say that my check engine light is not on. Any help/guidance is appreciated.
i need to know what to do in order to make the control for the mirrors to work.
I have owned since 25,000 miles. has 125,000 miles. Fully maintained. Just put new brakes on. Did Right Front wheel bearings at 100,000 miles. Other than that no problems. What kind of mileage do you see comparable cars lasting to? Is it time to trade in for something else?
how much does it cost to replace the ignition coils in the RX300
car overheating and then suddenly cools, sounds verymuch like a bad thermostste
I noticed my check engine light come on, and i also get a knocking sound when i try to accelerate.
In addition when i am accelerating, the check engine light flashes. I also noticed a burning smell, what can be the issue. it is a 1999 lexus RX300
This has occured many times in the last few weeks, i have been told that it is some type of control valve that needs replacement.
Where is the tail light relay located? Could this be my problem?
What would it cost to replace a locked up transfer case, which jamed up and cracked spline in transmittion which cracked front pump in transmition which cracked the fly wheel. Only part supplied by owner is a used Transfer case missing the pins, all other parts will be new. Estimate parts and labor.
This question has recently been posted - here's more detail about the problem. Vibration feels like driveline. Comes in at 20-40 mph. fades out, comes back a little at 55 with an oscillating drone. Can feel it slightly at all other speeds. Transmission has been rebuilt (geartrain hand grenaded) by a top notch shop. Transfer case wasn't touched. Supposedly, the vehicle had no vibration before the work was done - can't be verified. Diagnosis pointed to rear driveshaft section - renewed - no change. Front driveshaft section was renewed - no change. Both front axles were renewed "just in case" - no change. Got 3 ASE Certified Master Techs brainstorming on this and we're stumped. No chance of transfer case to transmission misalignment. Wondering if problem could have been installed during rebuild procedure somehow. Have done 3 more of these units in the past 6 months - no problems. Units have correct fluids. Engine RPM is not related - it's all about road speed. Vibration goes away (almost) when the load is off (as in "float"). Vibration can be felt pretty good with a manual downshift - i.e., engine braking loads the driveline and the vibration intensifies. It's definitely not tires, brakes or engine related. Not a noise - it's an actual vibration - just like a bad u-joint. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. :o)
Just had my transmission replaced. Afterward, there is a vibration sound. Put in a drive line and still a vibration. what could be the problem?
Is there a difference in reliability between a OEM and an after-market starter? Also, prices vary for starters. Is a more expensive starter better than a lower price? Could you recommend a starter.
I have a rattle coming from front-driver's side whenever i hit a bump or make a turn. I believe is has to do with my mounting plate to my strut assembly. Do I need to tighten any bolts to my mounting plate? If so, how do I get access to them and what size wrench will I need? If not, what is cost to replace a mounting plate?
My front brakes has "pulsating" feel when I brake. One mechanic says rotor requires machining and new brake pads are required. However, when i brought car for second opinion, mechanic says rotors / brake pads are still good. However caliper is frozen and will not move. Therefore, I need need calipers. I do not want to spend more than what I need to spend. What is your opinion?
I had ALL my struts replaced about a year ago. In addition, I had a rear mounting plate (part of strut assembly) replaced due to rattle sound whenever I go over bumps. Mechanic I brought car to concluded it is my front driver's side calipers. However, the rattle occurs ONLY when I go over bumps, or ruts on road. I still believe the rattle is coming from a faulty mounting plate, or a bolt is not tighten down on my front-drive's side strut. Do you concur?