I have had it diagnosed at least 3 times, including once by Hyundai Dealership. Codes for Camshaft and Crankshaft Position Sensors. Replaced Fuel Pump, both Coils, Spark Plugs and Wires, Crankshaft Position Sensor two times, Timing Belt, Balancer Belt, Camshaft Position Sensor, and Throttle Position Sensor. Hyundai says 99 percent sure the problem is ECM. Had someone else replace ECM, Still not fixed. It started out by dying while driving down the road. It would start for 2 seconds then die. After it cooled off it would start and go for maybe 5 to 10 minutes. Then same thing over again. Now it will start and run while missing out until it warms up. Then it smoothes out but sometimes acts like it might quit when at the stop light. The mechanic that worked on it last says he can fix any car, but not this one. I have it home now, trying to find help here. The check engine light is on now again for a Camshaft Position Sensor which has already been replaced 4 times since April of this year. Any and or all help is greatly appreciated.

2 litre diesel santé fe

AC stops blowing after several minutes, tests run etc confirming thermistor evap issue (car has 150K on original equipment); mechanic is also telling me the compressor is a "ticking time bomb and a matter of time" before it goes. I can get OEM core, drier, compressor & thermistor under $400; if I supply parts labor quoted for all with evac & recharge at $800, is this a fair price? Should I push back for lower?

Having problems getting the race n bearings from the hub assembly

All of these problems are intermittent. At last 2 gas-ups it was hard to start. Occasionally sputters or dies at stop light. And a couple of times it kept running after turning off ignition.

I am having issues passing inspection in NJ for emissions. Catalytic converter, evap system and oxygen sensors are all not ready after several round trips to work. (about 20 minutes highway and 10 minutes on back roads.)

The Oxygen sensor heaters are ready.

Any advice on how to get it to pass. I would think I should have conpleted the drive cycle many times by now.

When im driving on a hwy if I get slowed down for any reason to get back up speed to around go wat up to 4rpm and then back down to 2rpm what could my problem be?

While I was driving the car stopped , then it does not work agene :
the engine oil is good
the water is full
when I opened to see the timing belt, it was good and the water pump seemed to be catching and the engine could not turn on .
please tell me what is the problem

Have been told rear valve cover gasket is leaking small amount of oil & running down on exhaust. Have been quoted a wide range of labor involve to replace gaskets.
How much labor is involved?

Engine is the 3.5 V6

Misfire on #5 after clearing fault code and adding Seafoam injector cleaner to tank. Kicking in passing gear causes rear blue oil smoke and code set again for misfire #5. Mitsubishi 2.8 is like that and when one went bad it would smoke the same as this 2.7L eng. Thanks,bob.

Could anybody give me an idea on how much it would cost to have a garage repair the offside tone ring. could I do it myself without having to remove the drive shaft? any advice would be grateful, thanks

changed timing&balance belts both catalytic converters,fuel pump strainer,coil packs,maf,cam sensor. could it be purge sensor

I just bought this car and was told it was AWD. I noticed it is 4WD. My car feels like it is dragging or like a wheel or brake is locked and when driving at about 35 - 40 MPH it sometimes gives a bucking feeling. I went in the manual to see if I needed to do something special with the 4WD that might be causing the problem. All the manual talked about is the indicator light that should come on when I turn the key on. Neither this or a TCS light come on. I am scared to drive my vehicle if there is something wrong with either of these systems and now that I notice the lights not coming on, I think there must be something wrong with it for sure.