2010 Hyundai Elantra Questions
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Happens only while driving (in motion). Will take 2 - 5 seconds before rpm's return to idle. Does NOT do it parked at idle. Accelerator cable has be lubed and is free. Local dealer has looked at it 3 times in 2016 and can't fix this problem.
I can no longer adjust the volume using the dashboard control knob. I do not have a volume control on the steering wheel. Is there a solution to this problem?
I don't hVe a maintenace guide so I have no idea what this warning symbol is. Can u tell me please?
The lights were never on until I took off the flat. Within 15 minutes of driving with donut both lights came oon. Is it related to there being a smaller tire on the car?
A rear door light is turning on but the hatch is closed.Is it a fuse or does the hatch need repair
My brake lights sometimes (but not always -- it is an intermittent fault) will not turn off even when my foot is not on the brake and also when I turn off the car. This is a serious problem as the battery then goes dead. An additional problem is that when the weather is cold (below about 20F), my headlights will not turn off automatically when I turn off the ignition. Again, this is a problem as it can cause the battery to drain, but at least with this issue I can turn off the lights manually during cold weather. I have taken my car to to dealer to have this fixed, but they have not been able to get either of these issues (headlights and brake lights not turning off) to happen when they have the car, so say that if they can't see the problem happening, they can't fix it. Has this happened to anyone else? Do you know the cause (and more importantly, how to fix it)? Thanks!
I replaced the passenger side headlight and it went out again. When I got it checked I was told that the pigtail had burned out and it was melting the side of the light bulb.
My Elantra has 167k on it. I actually had a new transmission put in at 38K because of a factory defect. Havent had any problems since. When I am giving the car gas and the tachometer is between 1 and 1.5 the entire car vibrates. When the car idles it does so below 1. I didnt think anything of this until my friend was teaching me how to drive manual this weekend, and the same feeling I feel in my car is the same vibration i felt if I let up off the clutch too much before her manual would stall. Its not a violent shake - its that vibrating that happens right before the violent shake and the engine stalls out in the manual.
This transmission has not been touched since it was put in and has 129k on it. I am wondering if I need to get a transmission flush but I was reading if there are already problems with the transmission, a flush might exacerbate those problems.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
only when i turn right or left. its sounds like metal is rubbing together. Squeaking noise
light on now but not before doing timing belt
Noticed problem immediately car was repaired and painted at body shop.
my car was inspected by the dealership on Thursday and the next day the ESP Light turned on and the steer wheel is very hard to maneuver. what could it be? what could of caused it.