2004 Honda Civic Hybrid QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Do to the extensive publishings on issues, mileage and age caps for warranties, I'd rather not replace the IMA with another 2004 battery. Can I use a current years instead?
Also, looking at car-parts.com, I'm unsure which parts to repair. Parts listed for 'battery pack', ' core', 'grid charger' and there's a separate computer module?
Trying to repair my vehicle for less than 1G and it seems possible, if I do my homework.
when i accelerated the car shakes a little the only code is p1122 tp sensor
when put into any gear the car makes a ginding noise, even when sitting still.as if noise were coming off the flywheel.
The trans seems to be shifting find and does not appear to be slipping. Noise in stops instantly when put in park or neutral.
It has had a transmission flush because of recall back then for the transmission recall of the shutter/vibration when starting to drive car. Still had the shutter sound afterwards, but very little. Mechanic at dealership said that was normal for hybrids. So now this is happening. Replace or repair? The cost? 93,000 miles on car. Thank you to whomever replies back. I really appreciate it.
When the engine is hot and it is shut off, it doesn't want to start back up or idle very easily. No problem when the engine is cold. Also, I have had no problems with the auto shut off/auto start while driving .....it seems to work okay. One other thing I have noticed is the radiator fapn seems to run much longer when the car is shut off than before....up to 5 minutes. Any suggestions on what is causing these issues? Fuel pressure regulator/filter, etc?
Local dealer quoted $250 just to assess what is wrong with A/C on this car, told them over phone was getting weak, warm air flow.
estimated cost of the 2 options within $150 + -.
and estimated future mileage on both options.
Went to garage for inspection of burning rubber from the front breaks. The mechanic there had put on new breaks and rotors a few months before. Waited 3 1/2 hours and heard impact wrench run continuiously 2 times. Then mechanic called me out to tell me that both of the 2 rear sway bar links were broken. First think I noticed was that both insides were completely clean and it did not look rusted out like they said. I said something to them about it. Reply back was, I know how well you take care of your car and would not drive in water holes and etc., and that is why they are not dirty. It must have just happened. I told them that it has been raining all week and I have been driving in it and I would think there would be some form of debris on them from the dirt and rain mixture. They told me my car would not pass inspection when due and it would cost me $200.00. I took pictures and a video of this. I no longer trust the mechanic who worked on my car. I will be going to another one. Questions for you.....How hard is it to change it out and how to tell if there was foul play, which I expect? I see it is bolted on. Looks easy, but I could be wrong. A male friend who is a hvac mechanic looked at it a couple of hours after I left the garage and he said that these were manually broken. Now, I don't know if you will get back to me, but I will say that all the symptoms you have described on here did not exist on my car. Thank you and have a nice day.
Among other things I noted the upper right motor mount? where it connects to engine, one of the bolts that threads into the engine was loose. The impact broke the thread area out of the engine/component. What is that component that I need to replace? Water pump?
the gear is not select show code p0780 and p1898
with code p0780 and p1898
When it drifts right, I have to correct it to the left and then it over corrects and doesn't come back to center. It is subtle, but the tightness causes the least amount of pressure on the steering wheel, and it will veer dangerously to one side or another. It is exhausting to be constantly having to monitor the steering this way.
After diagonostics were run on the vehicle the dealership said that there was a broken transmission mount. He also said he as not exactly sure what is wrong with the transmission. He wants to first replace the mount, and then if that does not alleviate the problem---the car making bumping and thumping noises upon acceleration from stopped position-- he wants to do a transmission flush. If that still does not fix the problem he wants to replace the starter clutch.
I am hopeful that the mount is the problem, as it is apparently cracked and I am inclined to allow the dealer to replace the mount, but I would like a professional opiniion as I know nothing about cars.