2006 Honda Civic QuestionsRefine by vehicle
car just started with the problem today
It's the second time it came on . Cost 150 last time which repair was not done . plus cost of another key. Is the problem isolated to the switch ?
Dealer stated verbally that car passed the block test, no leaks and fans working. Then a day later dealer said car failed the hard rev test. Why would it pass one and not the other? Car not getting not at all. Gauge is basically a tad below middle as it always has been. They charged me $95.00 for the diagnosis and I'm confused about their results.
Took car to oil change place. They indicated that the car was low on coolant. Does not leak or get hot. Went on 700 mile trip in 100 plus degree weather and while idling in line after 10 minutes car got warm for about 1 minute and cooled immediately as soon as I started driving. Took to radiator shop did pressure test/ passed. Took to dealer who stated they did a block test and that it passed (message was on phone). I called back and advisor tells me same story but is interrupted and tells me he will call back which is next day and then says they did hard rev test and car failed test. He did not talk about dye, he talked about bubbles on last test. I feel I am being lied to. Car does NOT get hot or warm, runs great, heater works great, no coolant in oil, no white smoke, no leaks and now I check car everyday and coolant level is staying constant. Does this sound like a problem or does it sound like I'm being tricked into getting work done. Also car had a recalled long block which was replaced 80,000 miles ago. Car has NEVER gotten hot.
2006 Honda civic was using coolant but not leaking (notified by oil change place and they added coolant or possibly only water.) Had pressure test at radiator shop, it passed. Took car to dealer and they did a block test and it passed. They told me it passed via a phone message and I called back about 1 or 2 hours later and the advisor starts to tell me again that it passed as he had on the voice message and then is interrupted by someone and tells me he will call me back, which was the next day. He then explains that the engine has now failed and indeed does have a blown head gasket because they did what the called a hard rev test and said that there were bubbles. I feel as though I'm being lied to. He never mentioned colored dye only bubbles but the paper work calls it a block test. This car had a recalled engine (long block) and was replaced and now 80,000 miles later they are saying it has a blown head gasket. Car has never overheated since new engine was put in. Twice it got a little warm after about 10 minutes or idling while waiting in a line in 100 plus degree weather (about 3/4 of the way on the temp gauge) and then immediately went down when I started driving . Was only warm like that for 1 minute or so. I also do all the maintenance when required. Do these results make sense? Car is running perfectly and does not leak, no white smoke, no water in oil. Every morning I check the coolant level and it is staying at the same place on the neck of the radiator and reservoir is stable. Heater works fine too. No codes have ever come on, nor has any lights come on. Does it sound like a problem or that they are trying to dupe me because I am a woman? Thanks so very much for any input.
I notice couple of days ago that there's a small "schhhhhhh" noise that silent when I press the brake.
There's no leak and my two break fluids seems fine.
Moreover, I don't know if there's a link, but when the car isn't start the break pedal is full blocked at full range...as he pedal was loose couple of weeks ago.
when I try to start starter makes whizzing sound but do not turn the engine. replace starter and does the same.
starter turned over a little and died as if battery was weak. Replaced battery. All other electrical works but starter acts the same. It turns over a little then quits like the power died. BUT the starter does turn it over some.
acts like battery was drained or bad. Replaced battery. Everything is working except it still starts to crank over and dies as if it isn't getting enough power. When it tries to turn over it is weak sound.
Air low line not getting cold
to order the filter, gives me a response of, "non-servicable repair." Does that mean only a certified Honda shop is able to replace it for me, or am I able to attempt to tackle the replacement myself??
Thanks for any insight you're able to provide. Good day.
It's an r18, when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd I'll stay at the same throttle but the rpms will slowly start dropping but I'll still be at the same speed. Sometimes it'll also struggle to get past 2500 rpms. When I let off the gas it'll stay at the same rpms them drop to about 800 them jump to where it seems the engine is actually at.
The radio will sometimes work as it should but more recently it has a mind of its own. As the car warms up, the radio will change inputs. After 15 minutes of random change, it will stay on the selected input. When the car is already warmed up and I am running errands, the volume will raise and then a few static sounds and the radio will turn off. If I try to turn off the radio during this time, I cannot. Sometimes after I eventually get the radio off, when I turn it back on, I do not have any sound. What is going on? How do I fix this?