It started to slip and was hesitating changing gears then it just stopped changing gears completely
If I turned the car off and waited a few seconds it would grab reverse and drive for about 100 ft and then completely fail again.

I had replaced the A/C compressor, drier, fuses, and all new R134-a. It ran colder for about one day, and then blew out warm/outside air again! I then also had TWO A/C certified different mechanics run FULL diagnostics on the A/C unit and all its parts 110% BOTH could not find out or figure out why in the world it was not blowing out proper cold air? PLEASE HELP! They also checked for clogs and that was not it either?! WHAT ELSE COULD IT BE??

Charged the a.c. but still wants to cut off or run rough ...help me out

We go up hills or something that causes the car to work a little harder and we start smelling a burning smell. We have to change our oil faster than the recommended 3k miles (no leaking though). Also there is a sound of pattering at times.

When I rolled it down. What could that be? Off track??

i have a 1999 Honda civic with new distributor new wires and plugs and new computer but it still wont fire has no hot to the distributor when i put tester light on it help please???

I replaced the radiator cap and the thermostat. The heater fan seldom comes on. My overflow tank starts boiling/bubbling over and the temp gauge rises. I'm not sure if I have a bad radiator, dad water pump or a blown head gasket. What should I do?

To thepost in regards to gear shift sticking or not shifting with out difficulty. Could i get that sent to me as well? marlynmoro@yahoo.com i have a 1999 honda civic and the gear shifter is sticking as well.
i refer back to my manual alot.

please help i dont want to mess my transmission anymore if this could lead to that by forcinh into a gear to drive.

greatly appreciate any help.

shift selector will get stuck in the REVERSE position but not in DRIVE or PARK. It can be moved out of reverse with strong move

1999 Honda Civic • 1.6L, LX• 175,000 miles

The engine shut off while driving (no restart) and that lead to my diagnosis that coil failed (no spark, ohms out of spec, casing shows sign of arcing/heat damage). After replacing the coil and spark plugs, I realize I hadn't taken a pic of the wire connections within the distributor and didn't have them in correct location (no start). I then realized I had more available connectors on the ICM than wires to attach. I located a wiring diagram and the unattached connector is the stand alone on the ICM (closest to the coil). A wiring diagram shows that to be the 'blue' wire for RPM indicator (but is that correct?). Pix/diagrams seen online show that blue wire is in a 2-wire black insulator with the black/yellow wire (power). I have no blue wire. And it's not broken off and inside insulator. I can't find a blue wire inside the distributor at all.

So is there a wire that should be attached to that stand alone tab on ICM and why isn't it there in insulated wrap ('harness') with power wire for coil ready for me to snap on.

This isn't my first time under the hood, but I admit I'm looking silly with this Magic disappearing wire act.