1998 Honda Civic Questions
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I have had intermittent problems with attempting to start the car where the dashboards lights, radio, etc will come on, but the car will not turn over. It might take several attempts to get it started or be fine on the first attempt.
The latest issue has been trying to turn the key beyond the "on" position and it wouldn't turn. It felt locked. I tried putting it in neutral, moving the steering wheel, pulling the key out and in again and then jimmying the key and finally it released and was able to start.
At this point I don't know if I should replace the entire ignition switch or could it be something else? I don't want to be put into an unsafe situation, but I dont want to pay huge $$ to replace something that is unnecessary.
It only happens when making a hard right (like out of a parking spot). It sounds like 2 metal pieces might be hitting each other (not a squeaking sound like bad brakes make). Steering feels loose, especially at higher speeds. I had the front ball joints replaced about 5,000 miles ago. Any idea what it could be? How much to repair?
how/where to connect the wiring
there are two bolts holding the ignition wire set that must be removed during switch replacement. the have been broken off for theft prevention.
the car has no engine in it it had a 1.5 carb. would like to put something in it
I have a 98 honda civic lx that Im trying to keep for no more than a year. Recently I had power issues and replaced the alternator, turned out to be just the fuse, which is #15 on my car. I had a shop run car through test, and they told me that the o2 sensors were reading bad. I had 02 sensors replaced at a shop(payed way too much) 3 years ago. Last summer my car started dying while I was driving at low speeds or idling, sometimes I could tell it was about to and keep it going, other times it would just die with no notice, power and everything. It seemed to do it more when car had been out in the sun for awhile, or during hotter weather.Once fall and winter came, it stopped happing. Well now that warmer weather is here, its happening again. It takes several times to start it when in the sun, it will start up but then immediately die. I have the power issue resolved, but Im thinking the ongoing problem is the o2 sensors. Am I going to damage the car more if I just deal with it? Or could I get another year out of it before it gets worse?
i think there is a hole in it but i dont really know. its really loud whenever i drive it.
I leaned over on the parking brake and it sank a little and now the light won't go off!
water comes out tailpipe
The car sat for a year so everything is rusty.Previous owner did not install brake lines correctly.Bearings might break removing wheels
electric locking mechanism still works, door is unlocked.
My 1998 Civic-EX: After filling up the tank, parked/running on even ground, won't show tank as FULL... it shows as about 3/4-4/5 FULL. Pulled the back seat, removed wiring harness, jumpered across sending unit wires and watched as Gauge rose to FULL. AHAH! So I pulled the Sending Unit/Float Assembly, raising the float manually to see if the Fuel Gauge moved to FULL (it did), and I noted that there was a little fuel in the Float so I figured it was "water logged" with fuel. I replaced the SendingUnit/Float Assembly, testing the new float to make sure the gauge read Full when manually moving it upward. It did. I reassembled the sending unit Assembly with a NEW ONE and even took some sand-paper to the terminal ends that plug into the SendingUnit Assembly to make sure I had a good connection. Even after filling up the tank, the Fuel Gauge still doesn't show as FULL. It's not as bad as it once was, but I am back to using the Trip Odometer - knowing that I should probably fill up around 300mi. I hate "Trial & Error", ie- admitting that I may have made a mistake, but the float DID have some fuel in it. The connection at the Fuel Gauge is the only thing left (besides trying to track down the entire circuit line to see if it has insulation cracked off, slightly shorting out the line). Any suggestions? (before I begin taking the fuel-gauge assembly out of the dash) Thanks!
Suddenly, upon start up, the engine roars and revs up to 1500rpm (2x normal). 5 speed manual transmission continues to roar especially when shifting up or down. When speeding up, shifting must be done faster than normal (i.e-when speed reaches 40mph, engine roars ever louder, and requires shifting up from 3rd to 4th gear when engine gets up to about 2000rpm instead of normal 3000). The engine isn't overheating, and no other signs of major engine failure (no backfiring, smoke or exhaust, etc.). Just sounds like a loud sports car or motorcycle with any muffler). Thought maybe just the muffler or valves but what could explain the need to shift up so quickly, loss of power in general)? Thanks
Noise comes and goes. Loudest in lower gears and in downshifting. Once it starts, it can be heard when shifted to neutral, but stops once clutch is depressed. Often clicking noise can be stopped by depressing clutch and re-engaging gear. Clicking is not loud. Does not sound like a mechanical grinding or rubbing.
Was told by mechanic that one of cylinders is low on compression. Said most likely scenario was that it would take a valve job to repair. Estimated cost at around $1,300. Seems a bit on the high side. Wanted to know what the average cost for this repair is to determine if this is reasonable.