164
questions

My 1998 Honda Civic DX, hatchback has developed a problem with the hatchback's lock. One week ago we discovered that the external release handle will not open the hatchback now. When testing locking/unlocking with a key, I can see that the locking post moves up/down as normal. Yet, the hatchback will no longer unlock. I did lubricate the hatchback mechanism about 3 weeks ago with WD-40. Worked fine at that time. Any suggestions?
Thanks!

what is the drive cycle

OBD reading not ready

I picked up a 98 Civic EX recently that seemed fine up until it began billowing white smoke from the hood and my vents. Friend checked the oil and it was all burned up. I parked it and haven't started it since. If I just wanted to try to recoup some losses, would it be worth fixing it to sell it again, or should I sell it to some "We buy junk cars" place?

I picked up a 98 Civic EX recently that seemed fine up until it began billowing white smoke from the hood and my vents. Friend checked the oil and it was all burned up. I parked it and haven't started it since. If I just wanted to try to recoup some losses, would it be worth fixing it to sell it again, or should I sell it to some "We buy junk cars" place?

The pipe that runs from catalytic convertor to the muffler is cracked and needs replacement. I was quoted from my usual mechanic $318.66 ($224.00 for the Intermediate pipe) + gaskets, belt kit and then $52.00 for labor. This is in NJ and I have an EX model. Does this sound fair or high?

Idol usually at 1 also car is now sticking in park do to high rpm and now the car will do it even with ac off.

I have a 98 civic with d16y8 engine. The ticking noise is definitely coming from under the valve cover. I have put a new timing belt on it and set #1 cylinder to tdc. After that I went ahead and did the valve lash clearance. I made sure I used the correct specs for valve clearance and made sure the valves I was doing were on the compression stroke. The ticking noise is really loud and if I rev the engine up even slightly it sounds really really terrible.

\recently replaced the engine as well as distributor and have no power. Drove the car 2 days and stopped starting. Checked all ground and fuses and all is good!!! Please help me....don't want to think I changed engine for nothing. Don't want to get rid of car, but if I cant fix it theres no point in keeping it!!!

The car will catch when trying to start again but will not keep running. It sounds like she is bogging out when started and then quits.

And also when im in gear and turning to the right it makes a clacking sound... whats wrong with it

I have had intermittent problems with attempting to start the car where the dashboards lights, radio, etc will come on, but the car will not turn over. It might take several attempts to get it started or be fine on the first attempt.

The latest issue has been trying to turn the key beyond the "on" position and it wouldn't turn. It felt locked. I tried putting it in neutral, moving the steering wheel, pulling the key out and in again and then jimmying the key and finally it released and was able to start.

At this point I don't know if I should replace the entire ignition switch or could it be something else? I don't want to be put into an unsafe situation, but I dont want to pay huge $$ to replace something that is unnecessary.

It only happens when making a hard right (like out of a parking spot). It sounds like 2 metal pieces might be hitting each other (not a squeaking sound like bad brakes make). Steering feels loose, especially at higher speeds. I had the front ball joints replaced about 5,000 miles ago. Any idea what it could be? How much to repair?

how/where to connect the wiring

there are two bolts holding the ignition wire set that must be removed during switch replacement. the have been broken off for theft prevention.