Struggles to get it crank at first then it runs like it was forcing it's self has new battery and the auto zone guy said it could be my alternator . car has 90,000 miles 2011 Honda accord ex-l v6

Breaks abs

The seems to vibrate anytime I'm at these speeds. It stops shortly after but it is bothering me.

I had a battery problem and the car lost power. I went to activate the stereo and entered the code everything came back on except I have no sound. The stations are programmed, CD is fine I can see the CD info. But still no volume. Anyone have info on this problem. Thx

required maintenance

Up to date on maintenance
Seems to run fine.
Dad reset code and it came on after 24 hrs again.

Start unless I hit the gas. This morning it made a funky noise as I hit the gas to get ignition to turn over. Anyone else having this issue?

The sound is audible only inside the car and the drivers seat vibrates as well. The best way to describe this, is that the first time I noticed this I thought a helicopter was hovering directly above me and it was similar to the sound that the spinning propellers would make. The dealership diagnosed this as warped rotors, which was grinded to a smooth finish and yet the sound persists. They next want to take apart the back seat and check all moving parts under the driver's seat. This sound has not become constant yet and I was lucky to have service advisor hear it himself. If I put the car into park the sound stops. Back in drive and foot on break, starts again.

I needed a jump on my car (bought new) 3.5 years after purchase. Haven't put more than 2,000 miles on it. "Excessive rippling" showed on the printout the AAA guy gave me. When I got the jump, I hadn't run the car for a few months (for certain personal reasons), and the battery had gone out. The battery on the car was replaced a year ago -- the original had died after 2.5 years -- so the battery in the car now is still new and functional, according to the AAA guy. I'm not super car savvy, but there are no other issues that I know of. I'm taking the car into the dealer but don't want to get taken advantage of. I'm aware that off-warranty, alternators are costly to replace. I'm just trying to figure out why it went bad in the first place with so little mileage on the car and whether I have any grounds to speak up at the dealership's car shop. Thanks for your input.

Drove it yesterday. It was ok. Then today it will not start, but battery good.

Whirring started suddenly today, 90 degrees out, cut off all air/radio closed windows still obvious sound at highway speeds which decreased as I slowed and stopped. Upon acceleration started back up again at around 30-35 mph. No skip felt in transmission. Oil air and cabin filters, new battery installed last 60 days. New tires last 90 days. Approx 68k miles on car, all highway miles, 100 mile work commute each day. Bought used at 36k in jan2013. All maintenance except last oil change done at dealership.

Automatic V6 2011 Accord with only around 35k miles. I get my oil change on time at the local Honda Dealership (Never missed a oil change). No engine light or any other light is on. However, the transmission is making this loud noise once I pass around 30mph. When I slow down the car, the noise slows down and it starts to sound normal again once I get it under around 30mph. The power is the same, I don’t feel a difference. Sounds like I’m in an airplane once I hit 65mph (All windows/sunroof are up, nothing under the car or in the car that would make a noise). I’m about 90% sure it’s the transmission because of the change of noise once I slow down the car from 65, or if I accelerate pass around 30mph. Please let me know if anyone is facing the same issue or has a answer/opinion. Thank you in advance.

Traction control button does not turn the traction control off noticed it might be a problem when took it on a long drive to Lake Tahoe and it acted like throttle was sticking and engine rpm's would visually stick