2007 Honda Accord QuestionsRefine by vehicle
The a/c will not blow cold, but it does not need a charge either, the freon is registering full. It still works but its like the compressor does not kick in to make it cool I am guessing
problem just began, ans does not always happen, just when cold. No codes come up
It is a 2007 Accord 6 cylinder.
I have had no issues with the car thus far. Regular oil changes, etc.. No I am at 165,XXX miles and the car is idling rough when you first start it up. Can it be the plugs and wires need to be changed out?
My mechanic says I need to change the fluid but This site recommends changing the fluid if the pump is replaced. There is no info about periodic fluid changes.
2007, Honda Accord 20 door. what is the cost for tune-up?
My rear brakes are squeaking and I've been told I need rear brakes what is the cost?
72000 miles and have already put 2 new sets of tires on the car...so we started just rotating the 2 rear because it just wears the inside of the tires...when they wear out we move the front tires to the back and put new ones on the front...we get about 15000 to 20000 out of the rear tires...thanks
I took my car into Firestone. One of the recommendations that they came back with for my car is a fuel system cleaning. Its about an $89 service. Honestly I'm not exactly sure what they do for this service. Its something about "chemically cleaning the fuel injection system." They claimed that the throttling was a little sluggish in my car. I haven't noticed any difference although I don't really pay that much attention and can't really tell that my car was sluggish. Is this cleaning worth it? I guess a cleaning is a cleaning and it won't hurt. Its just one of those things that you really wonder if its a complete rip off or not because you'll probably never notice a difference.
For years now every so often when I try to start my car after its been sitting for a number of hours, I turn the key, all the electrical systems seem to come on (i.e. gauges and dashboard lights turn on) but the car simply refuses to turn over and there is no sound from the engine. As soon as I turn the key back to off, then turn the key to try to start it again, the car starts normally with no issue. At one point last year my car wouldn't start at all, but it would click when I turned the key. I took it to the dealer and they said I needed a new starter (which was ridiculous for the 65K miles on my car at the time). The car now starts and everything was fine for a few weeks. Then the behavior that I described above started to happen again. I have no idea what to do as of course when I try to take it in the repair shop says they can't find anything or reproduce the issue.
Bank 1 sensor 2 please help
When I changed it last I put full synthetic oil in it. I was wondering if how many miles can I drive it before messing it up? Sounds crazy, why not just go and get an oil change, but don't get paid for couple more days, so thats why.
I have a good battery and it has power (12.6 volts) No electrical power, no lights, no horn, nuttin! I have power to the fuse box under the hood. I have checked the fuses. Is there any other single point of failure between the fuse box under the hood and the firewall?
problem occurs during hot weather months and after using the air conditioner
It seems to revv strong enough but no resultant drive power unless you kick-down. Doing this only makes me drive hard and of course, burn more fuel to do very little work.
Sounds like it might if it were short on power steering fluid. Sound fluctuates when turning the steering wheel. Initially was present on cold mornings but now on most days when car is started, and appears to be lasting longer.