294
questions

This problem started about a week ago and progressed very fast. I was driving home (car had been running about 10 mins @ approx 50mph) I started up a large hill and it almost died. I kept patting the gas. Didn't seem to help completely bug kept it running til I found a spot in the pedal that it smoothed out. But if u pressed any harder or any less it would almost die again. Then just a few days later I left it running for maybe 15 mins bc of the cold temps, and started to pull off, that's when the dash lights, radio, radio lights, headlights all start to flickers. Then the engine starts to stumble, gauges then drop to 0, and finally everything dies. I try to restart and its like the battery was dead(the battery was replaced with an interstate about 3 weeks ago and alternator tested good at that time). Upon jump starting the car I noticed the CEL, along with ABS light, and battery light. Disconnect jumper cables and a few seconds later it dies again. If the disconnect the alternator or ig ACG fuse then it seems to do a lot better(at least runs). I checked the DTC thru my scanner and live feed on my computer. I have never seen such a list of stuff I've never even heard of and I been working on Honda's for 10+ yrs. Codes like C1703,C0001, C01<D,B2TAE,ROR. And the more common codes:P1157,P0340,P0141,P0498. The car has never had a CEL on for more than a few days b4 a problem was fixed. I've owned the car for 7 years and never had any issues until now. What on earth could be the result of such chaos with my car? What should I check or look for? PLEASE HELP!!!

This problem started about a week ago and progressed very fast. I was driving home (car had been running about 10 mins @ approx 50mph) I started up a large hill and it almost died. I kept patting the gas. Didn't seem to help completely bug kept it running til I found a spot in the pedal that it smoothed out. But if u pressed any harder or any less it would almost die again. Then just a few days later I left it running for maybe 15 mins bc of the cold temps, and started to pull off, that's when the dash lights, radio, radio lights, headlights all start to flickers. Then the engine starts to stumble, gauges then drop to 0, and finally everything dies. I try to restart and its like the battery was dead(the battery was replaced with an interstate about 3 weeks ago and alternator tested good at that time). Upon jump starting the car I noticed the CEL, along with ABS light, and battery light. Disconnect jumper cables and a few seconds later it dies again. If the disconnect the alternator or ig ACG fuse then it seems to do a lot better(at least runs). I checked the DTC thru my scanner and live feed on my computer. I have never seen such a list of stuff I've never even heard of and I been working on Honda's for 10+ yrs. Codes like C1703,C0001, C01<D,B2TAE,ROR. And the more common codes:P1157,P0340,P0141,P0498. The car has never had a CEL on for more than a few days b4 a problem was fixed. I've owned the car for 7 years and never had any issues until now. What on earth could be the result of such chaos with my car? What should I check or look for? PLEASE HELP!!!

I ran into get coffee and came out car would not start ,just cranked over....I pulled the plugs I have spark a.d the plugs are wet with fuel....help car ran fine just before ....

never mind. this site has changed and not for the better.

sometimes taking over 30 minutes of taking key in & out until key eventually goes right in.
Now not working at all. Key goes in. But won't turn.

using the same key and remote, it allows me to start the car, but locking and unlocking car either via remote or turning in door does not work...what is this

I removed the cluster and there are no bulbs. I checked all the fuses and checked everything I can think of. 2003 honda accord LX

My mechanic asked me to hange the fuel pump and nozzle which I did but it seems I have done nothing because it still happens. I dnt knw what else to do

I have to run it through the drive cycle in order to pass a smog check.

there are 2 sensors, intake and exhaust which one should be replaced and where are they located
should I replace both of them to be safe?

where are the sensors located?

I posted this issue before and now there's a new one...

A couple weeks ago, I posted on here about a buzzing noise and then it wound up being a bigger issue... it was the starter. I had it replaced and in it's first week, the starter was not working properly and then did the same thing: Everything lit up and no start. So I brought it back to the mechanic since it was under warranty and said it was just connected improperly, honored the warranty and fixed it. Now it's a week later, and the car is making a slight grinding noise after the start up but runs smoothly. This just started today and the fix is only 1 week old after it's last trip. Could it be he just tightened it too much, if such a thing? or is it something else? I think it might be the battery but I'm hoping it's not the starter (again) or something bigger...