1996 Honda Accord QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Head frequency when putting a head gasket back on
On putting key in ignition, and starting the car, I note that it will start only after I get an green light indication on "D" gear on the dashboard's display panel.
Sometimes, it takes 5 to 10 minutes after putting the key in the ignition, for the light to come up, and the car will start only after the light starts. Sometimes it starts within a minute. There seems to be delay in the startup from the computer. Any idea whats wrong and it's solution ?
I turn key all the way and nothing. No sounds. No dash lights. With key in on position I get no radio, no heat/ac, no power to roll windows up or close sunroof! But my headlights are working as well as dome lights and circular ring around key insert. That's it. Replaced, ignition switch and main relay and nothing. Fuses are good. But why wouldn't I not get power to my dash or other electrical components when ignition is in on position? Please help
I changed the fuel pump and fuel filter but my car will not remain running, it turns over and shuts off. I used starter fluid and the vehicle ran for almost a second but then shut off! Any ideals would be much appreciated.
piece that holds the harmonic balancer on tight so you can turn it but lefty lucy don't seem to be working ive broke three socket wrenches
Car starts after 2 attempts, once started car runs fine for approx. 15 mins. longer on cold days. then it looses power and surgres. will not completely die but comes close. dealership says pcm is bad. dont wanna pay $600 to replace is if flashing it is not neccessary i can do it myself
I have had the altenator replaced 2 times in this car. When it is running it runs very smooth. However at times when I try to start it up, it won't start. It will turn over but its like it won't catch. When it does start, I can drive it and it will stall. You never know when it will start or cut off. The battery is good (except I was told the positive connector probably need to be replaced). When the mechanic gets it, it runs smoothly. It has been in and out of the shop for weeks, with the same problem.
I bought the car 4 months ago and I don't have a manual nor knowledge regarding adding of fluids. Everything seemed to be at the proper levels until I recently discovered a white plastic container for brake fluid mounted under the hood on the driver side. (I thought there was only one) I am having concerns regarding an intermittent buzzing noise that started about 10 days ago and has been increasingly worse and I believe it is coming from that area. The ABS has never worked and I am in the process of saving the money to fix it Does it relate to the fact this box I discovered is empty?
My wife says the oil light keeps coming on when going up a moutain. The fan motor stays on when she cuts the motor off for a few minutes and the Radiator makes a gurgeling sound after shutting car off. I checked the radiator fluid level, ok. Oil level is between the two holes on the dip stick. Normal level as far as I know. Work performed: New radiator & cap. New water pump & thermostat & timing belt, new head gasket & seals. New tune up kit with NGK plugs & plug wires & distributer cap and rotor. Still having same problem, oil light comes on going up mountian.
the right side front cv has been replaced and I guess the abs and the non abs types are different. What part or how many parts do I have to replace or can the existing one be modified or upgraded?
I need to know if my AC belt is powering my water pump and if it isn't can I safely drive my car without it?
recently I have a problems with engine vibrates. I sent to workshop for repair. Found engine oil already flow into the sparkplug compartment. Workshop told me the engine need to be top overhaul, change piston ring, gasket kit, grind valve and cut chamber head, change oil filter. after repair the engine loss power, and vibrate when speed exceed 90km per hour and above. Please advised. thank you
when i put in a larger fuse every thing works for a minute then some where under the engine on the battery side begins to smoke.
only getting first , second and reverse gear when using transmission, also is there a way to tighten transmission cable.....
The vehicle has not ran hot. it has 280,000 miles on it but has been taken care of. Could it possible be the valve stem seals allowing a little oil to seap by? It does not do it everytime i crank the car. the smoke does not smell sweet like coolant is blowing out. when you check the oil on the dipstick, it looks ok. it does not have a milky appearance like the headgasket is cracked or leaking.