228
questions

Son has a 96 Accord Value model, 160k miles. Yesterday the check engine light came on, the speedometer stopped working and then the car stopped accelerating while driving. All power stays on. If you stop the car and restart it, it will start driving as normal and then does the same thing. Almost as if the car goes into Neutral in the middle of driving, the engine will rev but wont move, until it is shut off and start it again.

The metal is broke ,where u put the knob on so when i take knob off the half of it is in the knob itself ..help live in fl its hott..know it works and how to replace it can do if i just knew where to get the spindles ...cant put new knob on without them..

I just got a jump for my 96 Honda Accord after work that I left on all day and after my starting the car back up my running lights won't go out.

Hi Guys,
Originally, the 1996 Accord LX would start without any issues. Then after traveling about a mile, numerous hesitations arose for the next few miles. It felt like it was starving for fuel. If I pumped the gas petal while the engine was sputtering within a mile or so it ran as expected. Now it just turns over without starting. Fuel pump does not activate for 2 seconds after the key has been turned as required. The fuel pump has been removed, inspected, and checks OK. The sock filter on the pump does not show any signs of contamination or clogging.
After trouble shooting the electrical system, checking all fuses and relays, I found that there is no power coming to the fuel pump. I checked all wiring and fuses. I found there to be no power at the #9 (7.5 amp) fuse located in the cabin driver’s side kick panel. I have replaced the PGM-FL Main relay. PIN #4 of the PGM-FL Main relay (to the Fuel pump) never has power. I can hear the relays click internally but there is no power distribution to PIN # 4. I have removed the fuse panel and inspected all connections. The ECM has been replaced without correcting the issue.
Following the prescribed procedure ending on page 23-49 of the Honda service manual, power is directed thru the BLK/WHT wire, on the ignition switch, to the WHT/RED wire that feeds the A/T gear position switch that feeds the Starter Solenoid. This connection has not been verified. The starter works as expected. Now here is where it becomes cloudy. Neither side of the #9 (7.5 amp) fuse connectors has power. One side of the fuse should have to have power that feeds the A/T gear position switch. The other side of the fuse feeds power to the PGM-FL Main relay, ECM, and the Gauge (Brake Check Circuit).
The started solenoid appears to not be protected by a fuse if I am reading the schematic correctly.
Please help!!!

The ignition must be in the on position for about 10 or 15 minutes before the engine will start. The coil doesn't seem to have good spark till then is it the ignition or the coil?

I changed the water pump and it drove good for two days. Then drove 2 miles, got got, the coolant blew somewhere under the distributor. Notice oil, opened distributor cap and oil coming from inside and took the plug words off and a lot of oil is coming from the spark plug. I think head gasket but maybe just manifold gasket. Not 100%. Do you think you have an idea ? I quit driving as soon as it happened so I don't think the block blew but I also pretty sure the coolant came right under the distributor where a hose Connects

at the stoplight, I had it in drive and it did not want to take off, now I'm not for sure if it is the transmission or a sensor.

Had no problems before this on starting my car. Also checked plugs and wires