Marked distributor to head, it went in fine, starts right up and idle is fine but when I took it out for test drive it only goes 30 mph, no more power, what could cause that ?.

Known issue with leaking tail lights. Need to find gaskets to replace body to light seal.

Just started; takes two to raise window. Will work with help, but will start clicking again as I attempt to roll it (up or) down. Clicking sound is like plastic gears slipping. Does this sound expensive? Electric motor? or what?

mine is a standard i even tried to pop the clutch but that doesnt work at all, the engine will turn over but it wont catch, i tried to start it last night and it would creep as long as i kept my foot on the clutch and tried to start it but the moment i took my foot off the clutch it died..

I removed distributor cap and lot's of oil inside. I replaced O-ring but didn't solve problem.

My f22a1runs great when you start it from a cold start but sometimes when you take off and try to ease into the throttle it cuts out(almost like a cylinder misfire) but all cylinders are firing fine). It has a check engine light on flash code number 12 (egr lift sensor) and number 17 (vehicle speed sensor malfunction). I have replaced the ignition coil, distributor, cap, rotor, plugs and wires. My speedometer doesn't work so I'm thinking the vss on the transmission under the intake is bad that's where I'm getting the code 17. Someone told me to start it and let it idle and unhook the vacuum line to the egr valve and if it dies the egr valve is working. I did that and it didn't change anything or kill the engine. What should my next step be.

Thanks in advance

I recently got a 1993 Honda accord and the door worked fine at first but now the passenger side door is stuck open. No matter how hard I try to close it it won't fully close. It latches somewhat (it doesn't open up while driving or anything) but at the same time it is a bit raised from the cars side and the door light stays on as well as the open door image on the dash. I have undone the light on the door so it won't drain my battery. What is wrong and how can I fix this problem?

Rebuild the engine, rings, etc

only when vehicle reaches 55 m.p.h. or above will check engine light go on

the car has had this problem since i got it earlier this year in February. the car will crank but will not start when it has been outside in cold weather for a while (mostly overnight). it is not the battery, i had autozone test it. there have been times when i would put it on a overnight charge and spent 30 minutes to an hour cranking it, sometimes it will start after an hour of constant cranking. but when it warmed up it was good, except a few times on nights when a bad cold front has come through. now it is getting cold again and it is having trouble. as of right now the car will start up fine, today was a warm today and luckily it started. i forgot to mention, when it does start it will start right up the rest of the day, granted it is not really cold and has not been sitting for a while. it actually does not have to get that cold for this problem to occur, if it even gets in the low 50s overnight this will happen. earlier this year when it was cold it would be fine and start up the next day if it was parked in a garage. well that is not a option now. i really want to figure out and fix the problem before, well, there is no more warm days. the past couple weeks i have been researching and i found that condensation may get in the distributor cap overnight which may be causing this problem, but i took the cap off and there is no condensation on the cap? i tried wiping it off with a towel and that didn't seem to work. the main relay is good, i can hear the fuel pump turning on. and this distributor has to be good since i drove it today? any help would be appreciated.

Only when it goes over 60, it won't do it while driving in town. It won't turn off till I turn off vehicle

When I drive it take long to change gear and when I stop rpm goes up and down