2000 Ford Windstar QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Camshaft was moved without making any markings so the timing is off.
It broke while I was driving it and it sounded like a flat tire or something. When I got out and observed it, it was busted and could be seen through the rear tire well. It also looked like it started to scrape the back bumper and rear portion of the wheel well.
It is sitting in a parking lot & I have never done this before. I don't even know where the starter is located or what tools I will need. But I can't afford a repair shop or a tow & all my friends say I should be able to do this.
The transmission automatically locks out of overdrive after 4 downshifts when driving over small hills on the highway. Then it stays out until the van is turned off and back on again.
Removed vacuum lines during replacement egr vacuum controller valve. A red vacuum line attached to intake manifold in front of vacuum controler. this splits to three vacuum lines, green or white to egr vacuum controller, black thru firewall and a red line to ??? Any one know what this goes to and where it is at?
makes noise when backing up and sounds like it catches some time.
my radio was shutting off and on by itself know my passenger window wont work. When I push the button on the drivers side door the radio shuts off with the push of the window button like they are connected
I have a light that goes on sometimes and I would like to know what it is. Is there anybody that has a sample of the display of the instrument panel warning lights of a 2000 ford windstar
How do you replace heater in 2000 Ford Windstar? Two days of "clicking" sound when ignition key turned. Now no heat at all. Fan is fine. No more clicking. Need instructions for replacing heat/AC for backyard mechanic husband.
My van is driving me crazy. I have replaced the thermostat, radiator, serpentine belt, water pump, and the reservoir cap. It seems to have alot of pressure built up in system everytime I open the cap, but there is no coolant in the oil or vice-versa as far as I can tell.
what engine would i be able to use if i cant find a 2000, can i put in a 1999 windstar engine or a 2001 or 2002 widstar engine in. would they still be compatible to run the van right
What is a fair price to pay to have my upper and lower manifold intake gaskets replaced?
we changed the battery and altenator but the warning light is still on and when we step on the gas the gauges go crazy
While driving in October 2010 we the Red Brake light came on. We took it to a local repair shop where all new brakes/ rotars were repaired. When we got it home after a few weeks the brakes failed with the pedal going to the floor. We were told the Master Cylindar needed replacing. We replaced it. In January the ABS light came on at speeds over 55 miles and hour. We were told to take it to the dealer ship to have the recall work done for the speed control switch. A week after we got home we had brake failure again. We were told the wheel cylindar needed replaced. We had it done. Then a week later the brakes failed again. We were told the ABS module is bad and a wheel sensor was bad. We had the repairs made. As we drove it home that day the ABS light came on. We were told ABS module that was put in was bad and they replaced it again for free. While driving yesterday the brake pedal went soft and vehicle was hard to get to stop. There was a loud gurgling noise and then squeeling and grinding heard from teh rear of the van. Van is in shop again. Everytime the brake failure has occure it has been traveling at very slow speeds and in stop and go conditions. (its failed three times in the kids carpool line at school) What do we need to be looking for now?
3.8 ENGINE 172,000 MILES AFTER REPLACING THE FRONT CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL THE ENGINE STILL LEAKS OIL AT THE SEAL. IT SLINGs OIL EVERYWHERE. ON THE GARAGE FLOOR THERE ARE DROPS OF OIL ON THE FLOOR. IS THERE A PRESSURE PROBLEM WITH THE crank case system THAT IS MAKING THE OIL LEAK OUT OF THE FRONT SEAL? I SWITCHED ONE TIME TO SYNETIC OIL(AT 145,000) TO MAKE THE OIL CHANGES LAST LONGER 5,000 MILES BETWEEN CHANGES VERSUS 3,000. THE ENGINE HAS ALS OBEE NRAN LOW ON OIL . THE OIL LIGHT AS COME ON A FEW TIMES FROM 145,0000 MILES TO THE CURRENT MILEAGE. THE ENGINE HAS BEEN BURNING OIL SINCE IT HAD 145,000 MILES ON IT. I REPLACED THE VALVE SEALS TWO YEARS AGO. THE PLUGS ALSO ARE GETTING LOADED WITH CARBON. I CLEAN THEM in a grit blast machine TWICE A YEAR. I HAVE ALS BEEN USING SEAFOAM TO CLEAN OUT THE PCV AND TROTTLE PLATE SYSTEM. IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE THAT CAN BE DONE TO THE ENGINE WITHOUT OPENNING IT UP? IS IT WORTH PUTTING IN A NEW ENGINE (NEW ENGINE PARTS/ LABOR) $3,500.00 FOR A 36,000 FORD WARANTY ENGINE. THE DEALER WOULD GIVE ME A 1,000.00 NOW TO TRADE THE VAN IN .
THE ENGINE ALSO PINGS OR DETONATES WITH A LOAD ON IT. TWO Sensors have been changed, but with no lasting effect.