checked under the instrument panel with no noticeable noise. checked under hood and could not find anything.

low beam light does not work but high beam does on pass side

high beam works low beam don't

Where on the manifold is the sensor located?

2 years ago Ford changed #8 coil and charged $1200. Didn't tell me then about extended warranty. Just had local garage replace all 8 coils - still a problem. They think changing computer is only thing left. Will this help? What is approximate cost for this?

The back light and the dimmer do not work. all gauges function properly but night driving is not possible. vehicle only has 50 340 miles

What to look for 1st,2nd,3rd?The brake pedal has gone to the floor once,I checked the fluid level,It was low,I added fluid to recommended level.No brake system failure since, but both lights remain on ???.I used a CarMD,I think the code was PO 174,

I meant to ask how to locate sparkplugs and ignitioncoils on a 2004 thunderbird

Can't locate them

I had a slow leak and they indicated it was the power steering O-Rings, then the new O-Rings were faulty, then it was not the O-Rings, but the power steering hose, now they damaged my pulley - DO THEY KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING??? I took my car to the Ford Dealer because I felt they had knowledge on my car, now I am having second thoughts. I really feel they caused leak because the problem occurred after they changed my fluids in my car and replaced a sensor, which took 7 hours (for a sensor, really).

Dealer says module is bad and needs replacement. No units are available at Ford or anywhere else. What are my alternatives short of junking a great car with only 45,000 miles?

Car has only 49k miles on her. Just had a tranny job! Got her back and nothing but problems. Having intermittent electrical issues with doors... I can't shut them. Figured out it has to do with windows. If they stop operating in the up position they can't do the auto down/up thing that happens when the door shuts normally and prevents closing. If I leave the window slightly down then door will shut even if electrical is acting up and windows won't move but at least I can drive it. Problem is weather for that trick. Also when windows are acting up, the trunk release on the door won't work, the window switch is useless, the headlights and high beams won't work but the side and back lights do. Definitely a problem with days getting shorter. Sometimes when this is happening my oil light comes on the dash and sometimes it doesn't. When the door won't close sometimes the open door light comes on and sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes flipping the door lock switch back and forth several times and ending in the locked position will allow me to get the door to close when the window is all the way up but sometimes this trick doesn't work. Sometimes turning the car on and off several times will reset things temporarily so everything works but sometimes this trick fails. And when the car is the worst I'll try to bring it to the shop the next morning and when I start it up everything works perfectly!!! I'm going crazy. The mechanic who did the transmission work says he checked everything including the ground wires and couldn't find a problem. When I picked it up from him everything worked perfectly for a few weeks and I thought he must've tightened whatever was loose while looking for the problem, but then suddenly the problems started again. I'm terrified that this will be a lengthy expensive diagnosis and repair with another shop. Could this be an alternator/ battery issue? Could it be the electronic module is loose or corroded? Yes, I've been reading... I love my car and want to keep it but the problems started a month after the extended warranty expired and haven't stopped. I'm getting soaked with all the repairs. Does anyone have any advice or suggestions and an idea of what this should all cost to remedy? Thanks so much!
~Exasperated in Van Nuys

I have replaced spark plugs and replaced coil pack and have also replaced two injectors
one of the injectors is not functoning correctly

one way we found out is by taking the wire and testing other injectors to see the current going through

In that particular on there is no activity at all

please help me find a way to trouble shoot unless there is a common solution

ex. buy the connector would that be the problem

The "open-ended wrench" check engine lite comes on intermittently (I don't have the codes). An igniter coil (cyl#5) has already been replaced, as has the throttle control housing. Absent an undiagnosed wiring problem, the PCM is next on the list of "best-guess" causes for this problem ("limp-home" condition). How spendy is THIS PCM/computer replacement?

there is a cooling leak from what appears to be the water pump. replaced the water pump. pressure tested (2 psi) and something is still leaking into the valley to the back of the block. theres a small trail from what appears to be the piping from behind the thermostat that leads to the valley. im unable to see without removing the entire intake.