1998 Ford Taurus QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Making a loud noise when i do not have foot on gas and everything will turn but the crankshaft wont turn the belt it just spins.
It slows way down then speeds up gets stuck at 10mlh feeling a grounding on the floor board when it happens and the engine light is on but no codes come up when tested please help
I read that the intake could be made of either plastic or metal for I was just wondering
The radio works great. Just won't light up unless my headlights are on
I just let it run for about 10 mins yesterday with no problem, battery and alternator both showed fine voltage. It'll turn over, and almost start but instead the car backfires sometimes and the car shakes and putts. When it did start, as soon as u put it in gear you could tell a huge difference. While in park, it sounds just fine, running good. But then when u put it in reverse it putts and the car shakes slightly, lights dim, and flicker.
I drove it fine for a day, and it seemed to chug a little while idling in gear. Some day I backed it out of my driveway and it died and wouldn't start without a jump. After that it started fine but whenever I put it in gear the lights would flicker and the car would shake slightly. Would not happen while in park. Now I can't get it to start at all, it turns over. And sometimes it sounds like it's about to start but the car just shakes and instantly shuts off. Checked the battery and alternator, both were giving plenty of voltage. Can hear the fuel pump turn on. Put in heet and gas since it was running low. Nothing helped
don't know if we may have snapped in wrong wire to something else maybe forgetting proper place it went ?
the A/C compressor flat rate time? Had a $380 labor quote, when picked car up, had ballooned to $630 without the shop contacting about any extras, A/C still not working (probably the blend door), didn't replace serpentine belt as requested. Also, trans started leaking when I got car back. Should I burn shop to the ground, or send a lawyer's kid to Harvard?
Could the neutral safety switch module be to blame? Starts right in P or N, won't start in R or D, so that's working. 12 connectors on module junction, but only 5 active connections to wiring harness. Please suggest something, my ears are bored! No OBC codes about this...
Had alternator changed already, that's not it. It will take about 30 minutes before it cranks up again.
Trying to figure what could be the right part to fix transmission if replace screen or does it have a sensor or any thing else could use some help