4
questions

I am supposing a dead short in my ignition system I also wanted to inspect for a bad link to explain why she won't crank. I had a recent issue that fried the cam sensor, and several wires in the fuel injector harness as well as the park/neutral connector.

This problem first appeared when I went out to start the vehicle. The column shifter and key were stuck in lock...I pulled the ignition switch and freed the column and key, still no start. Relay noise but dead silence, otherwise. Accessories and lighting all are good. Replaced ignition switch, still in warrantee, still no start.I tested park/neutral switch. it failed. replaced it after testing new switch to verify it, still failed. In the course of this process I uncovered the wires to the connector on the switch and found 1/2 " of insulation gone on all three. I replaced the connector but still have no continuity in the installed switch. There is power to the switch when key is in start and run. Alternator, starter, solenoid, all good but, it turns out that the coil shows no conductivity from primary to secondary side, the cap is burned inside and shows no conductivity through the center lead, but all contacts a black. The rotor is fried, wires good. There is no power to the solenoid with ignition at start position. Check engine light is coming on, as well as Generator Light, the gauges drops off scale but that doesn't say much with the engine not running. Does check engine light being present mean ECM is OK? what is most likely source here?

The following have been replaced: thermostat, clutch fan, radiator cap, water pump (wasn't running hot until clutch fan was replaced and radiator flush was done) We were told the clutch fan was out but had never run hot until after replacement. Van has newly rebuilt transmission and we believe we have the air pockets out. We have reason to believe it is not the head gasket. Please help with other ideas.