2001 Dodge Ram Van 3500 Questions
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Ok my starter went out I changed it van ran fine for a few days then stop turning over battery power is good starter is brand new what could this be
2001 dodge Ram 3500 van runs but cuts out or dead when i give it gas. after i cut it off it will start then shut right off
have replaced fuel pump,fuses-ok, crank sensor,cam sensor,relay.ran for half hour,then died.cranks good cant hear pump ,wont start. what else could be wrong?
My dodge Van 3500-2001's shifter does not move, Is transmission going bad?
took fuel pump out wired it up it runs new crack sensor in new fuel relay no spark on plugs check coil at auto parts its good it had check engine light on had it check the dealer said it was something to do with air flow thou air filter not to worry about it could you think the eum or pum not let start
the spot looks like when you start to defrost the windshield in the morning.it is only on the passenger side and it does not go away. But it smells like antifreeze. when i tried cleaning the spot, it was alittle greasy. It has started no more than one week ago. it happens only when I use the van, not when it is not moved.
radio and power door locks quit working at the same time, fuses seem to be ok
I replaced the alternator last August, then in October the computer went out. That was replaced and then this cutting out problem started. Seems to run fine in the morning, and even traveling inbetween jobs, but whenever I leave it idling for more than a few minutes, the problem with the cutting out begins. It cuts out every 100 feet or so. It starts up again OK, but then cuts out again, and again, and again!
I have had a complete tune-up, replaced the coil, and it still happens. Please help?!?!?
Im trying to make sure that the pcm in the van is infact broken or shorted. Ive checked all the fuses and ive checked power and ground going into the pcm and that was ok but when i checked power at the connector going to the crank sensor i only had 2.7v DC when im suppose to have 5v. Do i need to go any further or is the pcm junk
I can turn the fan back to low or the first setting and wait about 10 seconds then turn it back on high and the A/C starts working again?
Mostly under load. Dist. cap and spark wires changed, throttle sensor changed,idle air control changed,coil changed No codes. Mechanic says bad lobe on cam.claims he put stet scope and heard noise which gets worse after warm up.
mechanic claims cam has a bad lobe-
I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 3500 Van and about 9 months ago the speedo stopped working, the AC stopped working (blowing cold and vent blowing on HIGH), the ABS and Brake light came on steady and the check engine light came on. It also pulsed or surged at times when driving. I had it hooked up to a computer and the code read P0500 "no vehicle signal".
So I replaced the rear speed sensor and it did not fix the problem. The fuses were all fine. I had it in a garage for almost a month as they checked wires and hooked computers to it to no avail. I started reading posts and saw that it could have been the ABS Module. So I found a great company online (ModuleMaster) out of Moscow, ID and they rebuilt my module for $130 and sent it back to me. When I got it back I re-installed it and all of the problems when completely away. This lasted for about 9 months.
Sad to say the same symptoms are back and so I called ModuleMaster and told them what it was doing and they told me that they would gladly look at it again (since it was under a 5 year warranty). I sent it off to them and they re-worked it and when I got it back the paperwork said they "replaced wheel speed signal conditioning chip and reflow soldered everything again". I reinstalled it and voila everything worked again with no problems ...until I put it into drive. Once in drive the ABS light, brake light, AC stopped working, etc. Back to square one.
I am at a total loss as to what is causing this problem. Can anyone help me with this? I don't really feel like taking it to the dealer as it will cost around $1,000 if it needs a new ABS module and I am not totally convinced that's the problem. It seems like the second it hit R (reverse) as I was putting it into drive everything started up again. Of course this might not mean anything at all. Also, at times when this has happened in the past the reverse lights don't work.
Something wacky is definitely going on and I would like to get to the bottom of it. PLEASE ADVISE! Thanks!
In case it helps, I have also had times when the AC/Heat switch would not work (blow at any speed) and I replaced a small part that goes into the blower housing. Not sure if that could be related to the problem or not?...