2000 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Questions
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Fine in the back two rows. What could dat be?
I have a 2000 Chevy Suburban, one owner besides me and maintenance has been well kept on it. About 4 months ago, the engine started ticking. It usually does it the worst after I've driven a long distance ( four hour round trip, etc) or when it's first cranked up in the morning on a cold morning. My dad said it could be a lifter and a couple of months ago, I started use 20/50 w oil instead of the norm. I want to take a spring break trip next week and I'm wondering if it will make it to south Texas and back. Roughly 2,000 mile round trip but of course there will be day long stops along the way. Will it make it?
When the "flash hazard" button is not activated, I continue to hear this clicking noise. I tried replacing the Flash Hazard relay; however, noise continue. Any suggestions?
There is a loud obnoxious rattling squeaking sound from the fuel pressure regulator down thru the entire fuel lines to the tank. It's been doing this for close to a year now. The sounds would lesson if I took off the vacuum line when it first started 9 months ago. I ran the truck with the vacuum line off for months with no performance issue but now there is a low hesitation at idle thru 1rst gear and it's more noticeable in reverse. I tried replacing the the fuel filter. Also before this all started I was adding Lucas fuel treatment or sea foam every other fill up.
Is my fuel pump all gunked up from those treatments possibly. Any ideas to trouble shoot this. 500 - 600 to drop the the tank and replace the pump will really hurt. Thanks for any help.
is seatbelt a recall
I'm trying to find out if it is most likely just the blower control or if something else is likely to have gone. When I try to turn on anything heat or a/c related it does nothing at all. Do you think the control switch will fix this? Is there anyway or procedure to test any other related components? Do you have any advice moving forward?
Heater was blowing cold air today but eventually started to blow hot.
I know its related! Warning light first, then gauges kicking on and off, finally rpms jump up and down and the motor ends up dying! The only code it gives is p0108. I expected a brain problem.
I have added engine restore additive ( no success ). I used 10W 30 and 5W 30 regular or full synthetic oil with no success. Engine has 150,000 miles runs great ( not noisy or knocking wants engine warm up), has good acceleration . Its just the engine noise conditions when the engine is cold.
The system has a good coolant charge