2002 Chevrolet Prizm Questions
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I want to know if anyone can tell me for sure what the problem is. I've heard many it might be such and such, or if no one knows, how I can check to see what the problem is without taking it to a shop. It sounds like rocks hitting each other when I shift into drive, there is also a grinding noise as well.
It was working just fine now its just cranking
Battery must be disconnected to kill the dinner and parking lights every time. With no key in the ignition the parking lights and dinner stay on even with door closed what's wrong
Other times, have to wait overnight, currently it want start for 2 weeks?????
I was driving my car everything working just fine..... got back in and head lights will not come on....the park lights work back lights work just no head lights not even bright lights will come on....please help
The cam broke inside my 2002 geo prizm "My guess from oil stravation" I want to replave the whole cyindar head but am having trouble finding it at different salvage yards. could i plave a different year model on it? Any help would be grant
I don't know anything about car but my buddies will help so long as i have the parts.
If I don't drive 30,000 miles in 2 yrs should I change it?
the car runs great before the engine warms up, but after that it runs rough at any speed or rpm range, in gear, but it revs up with no hesatation or skip in nuetral or park. but when a load is on the motor it starts skipping erratically. I have changed coils, sparkplugs, cat con, O2 sensors, cam-crank-knock-temp-ect-sensors but no change switched injectors around, smoked the vacum lines what am i missing it has me puzzled, the ECM-ECU-PCM has been checked its fine also. PLEASE HELP ME IM STUMPED oh yea it has thrown a 01300-01400 code out there to which is a unknown code in any manual or guide i have access to?
it is only when i am idling at a stop, i have recently cleaned the mass air flow sensor and consistently run mid grade fuel as i was having problems with it running to lean. just recently ran risolone fuel system cleaner/lubricator through but normally use another brand. codes p0300 and p303 pop up when the diagnostic was ran.
Check engine light has been on for long time and eng. ran O.K.
Now when eng. is turned on it misfires at idle. It also misfires when I give it a lot of gas. What is the first part
that should be checked?
Vibration noise from front of car when started and put into gear; lasts only l or 2 minutes. Only occurs when engine is cold.
rear alex seal linking both sides
Are there any cheap/reasonable/simple options to reduce oil consumption such as using a onetime/long-term oil additive or convert to synthetic?
I’ve owned the vehicle since it had 108,000 miles on it. Oil consumption then was 1 qt. every 3,000 miles. The engine now has 157,000 miles on it and currently uses 1 qt. around 2300 miles on a fresh oil change. It uses the 2nd qt. by 4000 miles which is when I change the oil & filter. I always use a quality conventional oil that meets API SM, SL Service Classification and manufacturers' U.S. warranty requirements. It also meets or exceeds ILSAC GF-4. I’ve tried several different brands but consumption continues to increase. There are no leaks. I use this vehicle for an 80 mile daily commute with 98% highway speeds. I want to avoid costly (internal engine) repairs. Would using full synthetic help after a few oil changes? If so, what are the precautions I should follow for the conversion to synthetic?
Living in Arroyo Grande, Ca... what does the state emissions require for this catalytic conveter part? Does it have to be GM certified? My dealership said it did...This would cost much more for the part... Is it really necessary? I don't have a lot of funds for repairs..