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questions

I have checked everything, but there is no sound when I turn the key.. I have tried to start it in neutral, but no luck.

Checked battery and starter both good. After having a hard timed turning motor with breaker bar I put car back together clicked again then motor started turning over. Did not start. Quit for the night tried next day started clicking again. Really don't think motor is locked

The timing chain and the intake cam broke so we replaced the head both cams and tge chain. Check engine light is on and the engine will crank slowly but will not fire up. Just need an opinion as to if the crank position sensor or the cam position sensor would be more likely to be the problem. Hooked the diagnostic up under dash and could not pull any codes. Any ideas?

replaced A/C pump and power steering pump - did not fix problem. noise stops when turn steering wheel to left or right. knocking was intermittent but is getting worse. no loss of power - car runs fine

could this be The ECM computer causing this number of issues?

Sometimes spraying doors with a deicer works but sometimes it does not.

I recently did the following maintenance of my 99 chevy prizm.
1) Changed Spark plugs and wires with NGK ones.
2) Replaced valve cover gasket
3) Replaced all 4 mounts with Anchor brand mounts.

I replaced the valve cover gasket and the passenger side mount on the same day. As soon as the mount was replaced, when I started the engine, I can feel loud vibrations on the frame and inside the car. It gets worse when I drive it. When I let go of the gas, the vibrations quietens down. The mechanic told me it might go away if I replace the other mounts too, which I did the next day but the vibrations are still there.

When I read about this issue on forums, couple of things were suggested for similar problems,
1) Could be due to a timing issue or even a bad harmonic balancer. I got a mechanic to check both and they are perfectly fine.
2) Maybe due to a misfire, which also checked out to be fine.
3) Some aftermarket mounts might take some time to break in. I am not sure I totally agree with that. Aren't new mounts supposed to absorb the vibrations and support the engine and not make things worse.

I am totally out of ideas on how to troubleshoot this. If any of you experienced guys out there give some useful suggestions, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks,

I have notice that I have to put freon in my car a few times a year.I just finished putting freon in my car and I posted it in my phone calendar to keep track of it.I also want to know if the low port where you put the freon into suppose to have a cover or some kind of top to keep it from leaking.

The bolt will not clear the fuel tank do you have to drop the fuel tank?

I recently bought a 1999 Prizm with 153,000 miles on it. It ran a little rough when I bought it but didnt' burn oil so I put new plugs and wires in it as they were in bad condition. I ran a couple cans of Seafoam and a couple bottles of fuel injector through it as well. Car started and ran great after that until it got cold this winter. On cold days it would occasionally sputter and die while starting it cold but ran and started fine when it warmed up. I read that a simple fix was the coolant sensor, so I replaced that. It seemed to help and it started and ran fine on some very cold and snowy days but then started doing it again. I've worked on cars a lot and am retrofitting a TBI system on my old jeep engine, but I lack a lot of practical knowledge and troubleshooting ability with fuel injected engines. By the way, the air filter was brand new when I bought it, oil is clean, no leaks or burning oil, and the old plugs just looked like they'd never been changed. Any ideas?

Car will run fine unless I turn on Headlights engine cuts off. Turn on signals indicator lights will flash also parking brake light engine stumbles . If I turn on A/C engine cuts off. Any Ideas

how do I replace the 3rd brake light (center - mounted in the rear window) on a 1999 Chevrolet Prizm? Does it have a bulb?

Engine started to miss and continued to get worse. Took it to get diagnostic check and it came back plugs and wires, which we did. Car ran great but as day worn on, same problem, when at a light it would miss and sputter and upon accel would do the same. At constant speeds it runs fine. Redid the diagnostic and came back possible cat converter problem. It seems to get worse as the day wears on. Ideas??

steering wheel and car shakes when I accelerate mostly between 45-65 mph, I just rotated and balanced tires tho? the engine light is on, maybe the engine doesn't have enough power?