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It first started with rough idling, then after a few weeks it got to the point to where you would have to start it in neutral and as soon as it starts you would have to take off instantly or it would stall and when driving it, it would act like it wasn't getting gas, when ever you go to hit the brake it would start bogging out until you punch the gas then it would lag then take off. It finally died on me on the high way I let off the gas and it started to putter but when I pushed the gas it bogged out slowly and hasnt been abl to be started since. I've put new plugs, wires, thermostat, water pump and radiator and still won't start. I keep thinking fuel pump. Any advice???

this car always ran. Code for crank sensor came up, changed. Started once. Code cam up Ign. control mod. changed. no start found ground from bat to body broke. jumped wire, car started. disconnected jumper and car still started 2 times. replaced ground. will not start Code 12 is all that comes up?

The odometer will role a number over then stops and will sometimes move when I have hit a bump or pot hole. How can I fix it?

i tried putting it into neutral to get it started after a jump from a ComEd truck didnt help, & pressing the brake pedal was making the radio act up

Replaced fuel pump , fuel injector, car still runs rough, cuts out comes and goes cant figure it out?....

had to press the gas hard for it to slowy reverse uphill. also on a slighty elevated driveway...whats going?

what would cause my cigarette lighter not to work

My wheel on the driver's side locks up temporarily and I skid to a stop until I drive for a while and it warms up.

i tried to fix my horn and when i put the airbag back on it went crazy now i have no radio no interior lights what can i do to fix this i need the radio screw the horn

I have a 1991 Chevrolet Corsica with a 2.2L 4 Cylinder engine. After driving on the highway (About 45-55 MPH) for an extended period of time (Usually 25+ minutes) my car has an odd habit of dying as soon as i break to a stop. I have tried extending the breaking distance to hopefully allow the transmission more time to drop to a lower gear or something (I really don't know anything about cars)

The problem got worse the other day. After in town driving (Never more then 35 MPH at the VERY most) it did the same thing in the middle of a major traffic lane, thankfully it was late at night and some kind folks came and helped us. I don't know if its an issue but i was running the AC (Or what i think is the AC) for a lot of the day.

We checked the Haynes manual and it said it might have been a problem with the Torque Clutch Converter Solenoid. I would like to know if this car can be fixed for under $70 and WITHOUT the use of ANY special tools (Anything aside from basic socket ratchets, a car jack with 2 stands, some muscle and a torque wrench.) If somebody has an answer, i would be eternally grateful!

-My Interior Light Works When I Open The Door, But I Was Wondering How To Turn It On Without Opening The Door?

what is the wiring testing process for non-operative tail lights? Do I need a wiring diagram? Do I need a special voltage meter? I replaced fuse and bulbs, only right rear brake light and same side turn signal works. Thank you

I have a 1990 Chevy Corsica 3.1L My car has had electrical issuses since I have owned it First my turn signal switch burnt out and then a week later the car acts like it s lossing power and then it dies I have tested the altinator and battery after it died and they are both good when i disconnect and reconect my battery the car has power again for a short time and then it dies again When i replaced the turnsignal switch the new switch sparks and burns only when it is drive If some one can point me in right direction I would be greatful Thanks

runs rough. stalls sometimes when coming to a stop. Doesn't start back up after stalling out.

When I went into the store and returned the car would not start. I put a light to it to see if it had fire and it didn't.