2011 Cadillac CTS Questions

Get answers to questions about your 2011 Cadillac CTS at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

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Sometimes i walk back to my vehicle to notice trunk is open

Early December. Since then, the engine light came on and it was a spark plug cable. Then the check engine light came on again and it was the solenoid. The tire sensor gauge has come on 3 times and now it's at the dealership because the water pump went out. Any suggestions? Did we purchase a lemon? We've owned the car about 6 weeks and with the water pump are already about $1200 into repairs. The car only has 61,000 miles

Stuck in furthest back position. Set up to glide back for ease of getting out when car is turned off. Motor makes sound but not move when attempting to go forward. Do motors make noise when they fail? How do I diagnose? Motors to raise and lower seat are fine. If I attempt to go bsckwards, motor makes noise then shits off due to already being all the way back. Tx for any help in advance.

I entered the car with my key and tried to start the car. The message center said that the car would not start due to security system issue. This is the only time this has happened.

Quick question? After coming into contact with a pothole with my cts my cars stabilization system kicked on and began to cause the car to have a rough ride comparable to your tires spinning while they attempt to catch traction and will not allow the vehicle to reach speeds about 35-40mph. When attempting to brake during this time the cars ABS does not seem to brake and comes to a very shaky rough slow stop. After some time the stabilization system turns off and the car is fine with no issues with acceleration or AbS just a light on the dash stating the stabilization system is deactivated. The steering wheel is at a slight angle and after researching I thought it could possibly be a misalignment of the steering wheel sensor. The wheel/rim has a slight scuff but shows no signs of being bent, which im being told it is. The car rides smooth still when the stabilization is deactived and before it causes the car to go into a frenzy prior to deactivation. The dealer called and said its a 1,000$ job, is this true or am I being attempted to be scammed? Any help is greatly appreciated!