1991 Buick Park Avenue QuestionsRefine by vehicle
So I have changed the magnet under the timing case as well as the camshaft and crank sensor. I have changed the starter, ignition switch, ignition cylinder, battery, engine control module, and I think thats all "ignition" related. My 1991 base model 3.8 buick park avenue has just over 90k miles. The problem seems to be like when my magnet needed changed since the night before last it wouldnt start, but it would crank. The next morning it started first attempt. This morning it is cranking over, but will not start. I lifted the hood and took what I believe to be the cables on the left top front of the engine near the battery and stuck a screwdriver in the cable and tried to crank it and recieved no shock. I put my ear near the gas tank and I can hear the fuel pump turn on. The battery is holding a 12-13 charge and I have full power on the interior. I have a half of a tank of fuel as I always keep it away from empty since all of these issues started occuring when I would run it low and I thought it was fuel related before changing any of these. I have not changed the spark plugs or cables, but I plan to if I can get my car started since im on vacation and stuck in the middle of no where. Why would the cables not shock me, there are 6 which is why I believe they are the cables. I know everytging about cars from these events that happened and know enough if help is given. Please help! Its hot and I would like to fix this problem today!
On the new switch I have the hole isn't placed for the steel rod that goes to cylinder to interlock. The hole sirs to the side a little. I don't remember if the rod goes inside of it or what? I'm so lost and need help please! 9513236190 email@example.com
It has spark, is getting gas, and has compression. It seems like the spark isnt going in the correct order. Could it be an electrical issue of some sort or would it have to do with the timing chain
My terminal on the black post of my battery wouldn't stay tighten n I would lose power. So I replaced it with a new one. Well that one wouldn't tighten at all n was stripped. So I replaced the buttery with a new one n new terminal bolt, which was the short one that should of been in it in the 1st place.the old one was a diesel bolt with a bunch of washers on it. Well it started right idol fine but the battery indicator was at 12-13 & kinda was bouncing around a little. Well I put my signal lights on the battery warning lite came n n dropped to the bottle n it would go up alittle when shut it off. Then it killed n wouldn't start. Like it was getting no gas. Then when it did it was hesitating to start like it was suffocating n n wouldn't fire over. Cables are all tight on the battery. I lost
The lights come on but engine will not turn over. If I cross at the silenoid the car will start. What is the most common cause of the car engine not cranking/running.
I can tell the shock is bad due to a loud thump when I hit a dip in road...im taking a trip that's about 600 miles (hiway)will it do a lot of damage to the car if I cant get it fixed before the trip? im getting quotes of 400$ plus.
I was griving my bi ick home from work. I stoped at a stop sign and when I took off again I hurd a weird noise and my car wouldnt shift from first to second. Stayed in first an when I got Home I went to back in my driveway and didnt have reverse. Is my transmition junk or fixable?
when you let go of the ignition it stalls. The Water pump did lock up and has been replaced. Since then the car will not start.
With out having to do a complete swap to make it rwd I want to keep it fwd
then let cool down and keep start .. wont on engine .. i notice oil is low but radiator half ... i hope not crack engine bu it is not mess together antifreeze and oil not yet i hope u understand about it cuz i am bad English also i am deaf too ok thank you so much
The rearend sags and occasionally drags the ground, Im pretty sure its a lack of air in the air shocks, but don't know how to air them up or if there are non air shocks that can be used
Have changed all. brake pads,
I am only second owner.
it had only 45,000 miles at that time.
I have only put on 20,000 which makes a totak of 65,000 miles
the heater was working only when it wanted to. suspected that there was a short in wiring Last week the heater came on and would not shut off even when the car was turned off. A local repair shop said that there is a battery under hood and it pulled it to shut heater off and that a new module would be need for $420 - this is a 1991 - don't know if he is scamming me or not. How can I find out if this true and how do I find out where this battery is - so I can replace it and pull it if this problem happens again. It only affects the heater. I am 73 years old and feel they were conning me. Charged me $40 just to pull plug which took less than five minutes.
why does the car shut off