This is what the seller says about the car: 1998 BMW 323ic (e36 - convertible) - 5-speed manual - good clutch - mostly highway miles - new electric top and rear window (in full working order) - complete suspension overhaul over the last 3 years - new Racing Dynamics Strut Brace - brand new Pirelli P7 all season tires - engine runs beautifully - brand new radiator and fans - excellent heat and freezing A/C - regular oil changes - recently replaced brakes and rotors - complete service records for the past 7 years - no accidents - black exterior with tan leather interior - non-smoker - This is an amazing car that has really been taken care of and still has a ton of life left in it, plus it's a convertible! Asking $2499 or best offer.

My vehicle starts well in morning when engine is cold. After the engine has heated and i switch off the engine , it wont start till the the engine is totally cooled.

i have changed the steering rack four times and each time the top seal keeps blowing out. i also changed the pump.

with engine swap we also upgraded the computer to one from the donor car that the engine came out of,

can this be repaired without replacing head gasket and retooling one cylinder? Value of car seems to be close to cost of replacing gasket. Is their a effective and less costly fix?

I need to replace the carbon canister valve but cannot find where it is located.

when it rains or wash it with the water hose

A brake light circuit light came on and I don't know what that means.

I have a 1998 BMW 323I convertible. How do I figure out rotor size? they say it can be 280mmx10mm or something else

i Have a BMW 323iC. I had a guy replace the alternator (it was dead & had been draining the battery previous to it finally dying). The alternator now works, the starter seems fine, everything engine-wise seems fine...but the car will not start. The BATTERY LIGHT is on, the OIL light is on & the EXCLAMATION MARK (inside sort of a circle) is on.

What could be the problem? Please help!

i have a 1994 bmw 325i that has sat for several years, i did get it to start by force feeding it fuel and it runs fine. i dont know how to diagnose where the problem is in the fuel delivery system. where do i start. and where can i find a good resource for information to get this done.

My 323i convertable heater and AC intermitentily works. The panel lights on the controls go out then come on with no other symptoms relating to it. Please help.

Has a strange "sulphur" smell after stopping

it's a 1985 but it won't show that on the list.

Transmission: Automatic
Engine: 2.3L straight 6.
Fuel injected
Runs on petrol
Medium sized sedan

My car is a strange one, i've recently purchased it.
The main problem is it's lack in power and these things apparently are meant to FLY.
When I start my car and go to drive off, I'll push full throttle and it will go from like 800 revs to 900 until it picks up some speed and get to 1500 and eventually 2000 revs on full throttle.
The revs is different to my accelerator most cars rev depending on how far the pedal is down, mine kinda does otherwise.
if I'm cruising at 70 KPH (43 MPH), this is what it's like with the pedal:
0% revs normally for that speed I guess which is about 1.5
25% revs at maybe 1.6
50% revs at maybe 1.8
75% revs at maybe 2.4
100% starts reving at 2.5, builds up to 3 then 3.5, pretty slowly.
110% (when i click it) goes straight to 4 revs builds up, screams and doesn't seem to have much of a difference which i'd expect.

Other than that, I might be paranoid but I think my petrol is draining WAY more than expected, these things are meant to apparently be good on fuel.

And if it helps and might be to do with the engine problem, my engine fans on the radiator turn on when i put the igition ON :/ even it the engine is off and they seem to stay on when the engine is on as well, also I have multiple electrical problems around the car.

Hmm, and if you think it's the fans being on that makes the performance bad, you could be right but the fans are controlled electrically and not actually attached to the camshaft.

So in basics, doesn't rev like it should, when it does rev it feels like it should be going faster at them revs.

if the ignition lock cylinder was replaced could that of affected the camshaft sensor