I was driving my car and it died on me I thought it was something wrong with my fuel line but it seemed to be running fine so I had an out of work mechanic look ate it and he said it is my rocker arms and it needed to be replaced.

This happens when I'm up shifting. I've replaced many components related to distributor but it keeps coming back, could it be a PCM? Or maybe a ground connection?

The transmission is slipping and it takes a long time to heat up

I hear fuel pump. I have no spark still.. i had code p0300 p1456 p0304 p0303. P0420

the lights get bright and the temp guage goes up when the battery light comes on

so i recently noticed my car is making a sound everytime i turn left. the sound is light sometimes then it gets louder and it sounds like a loud bang. i have a acura el not a integra. please let me know on what actions should be taken and if this is a serious problem. thanks

Replaced the following: plugs w/NGK; plug wires; Dist. cap and rotor; coil. I have turned off the check engine light several times with my OBD II scanner, it keeps returning with same fault code. The only difference is an increasing calculation load. I have also changed fuel injector connectors between #3 and #4 cylinders, and spark plugs between same with same fault code. I have not tested EGR, mass air flow, Crankshaft and camshaft sensors, intake leak, or throttle position sensors. I have been replacing one item at a time for several weeks now, and have not found root cause. Please help! Thx!

Hi repairpla
I was driving my 98 acura 1.6 el ( did have it listed on the make ) today on the main road and when I pushed my gas peddle to go fast I noticed that once I hit 100hp that my engine light came on and it stayed on till the ride back home. I was just wondering that if it can be because of the engine not having oil or because of the things you did point out. The cars performance stayed the same and was running good but I didn't want to push my luck so I maintained a good speed throughout the ride back home. I am going to get it serviced by a professional but I would like to hear your I put on this.

Thanks. Naz905

It shut off until it cools off then it starts to run ok could ot be fuel pump or distributor

when removing radiator cap it's bubbling over hot! Could it be my thermastat not opening?

Here's the skinny: I was driving my car on the way home this past Thursday (5/3) when my car was having issues maintaining speed on 5th gear (5-speed manual) on the freeway. I would shift to 4th to rev up the speed and maintain it for a distance before shifting up. Next thing I know, the car dies in the middle of driving and I'm forced to pull over the shoulder to investigate.

I found no coolant and oil was running low, so I filled both of them and waited to start. Car would crank and try to start but no avail. I can see the dashboard lights (oil, brakes, engine, etc.) when I turn the ignition, and the AC worked given the car wasn't running. DOT guys came and helped but couldn't get it to work, said that it looks like it overheated without coolant and may or may not start unless the engine cools down. So I got my car towed to my house.

It's been about 4 days now and car still cranks but can't start. I'm not a mechanic, so I don't really know of the technical things behind the car other than the very basics. I've checked things online and found that it could be fuses, spark plugs or worse.

If you have any idea of how to fix this or would like more info, I would love and appreciate your advice and help.

Shield came off underside of catalytic convertor and I still have the part. Would have to hose clamp part back together since mounting screws corroded and fell off. Would that work, or does the convertor need to be replaced? Also, how would I know if its the rear O2 sensor instead of convertor?

im replacing the head gasket and a few valves and i noticed while taking off the harmonic balancer that it had resistance in only one spot as i turned it. i repaced all the gaskets and some valves that were burnt, im on the reassembling part now. before i torque the harmonic balancer back i turned the crankshaft to see if the resistance went away and it didnt. my book says that it might be that the valves are contacting the pistons but i dont think so cause it was like that before i did the job, and i dont really want to take the cylinder head back off because the bolts holding it down are one time use stretch bolts $150 for new ones. Any advice

The front of the car's rear cross member where the steering rack sits is rusted/rotted out, Safety issue. Need a new front driver side upper control arm. Also the rear tires have severe inner tire wear. How much to shim the upper control arm to straighten camber? After all this, I will give it a 4 wheel alignment.