Volvo 740 Questions
Get answers to questions about your Volvo 740 at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.Refine by vehicle
It is a 1992 Volvo wagon my second 740, body is choice, engine clean but I got
Issues. Six weeks ago car died on hwy, Volvo dealer diagnosed no spark past distributor, so I got it towed home and did the following.
Cleaned intake, throttle body, got new wires new plugs, new distributor cap and rotor, checked all vacuum hoses replaced vacuum boost hose to intake it had a tear. Replaced all rubber connectors to intake thinking vacuum leak. Replaced timing belt it had a slight tear.
Crank shift gear lost its nub so replaced that. Cleaned IAC.
Resurfaced all grounds.
Car now starts on second try, idles in garage right at 750, in gear will bog down, and stall unless warmed up for 15 minutes or its a warm day. If not driving and parked for longer that 3 hours it will do the same thing as a pure first cold start of the day.
Everything I have done solved the starting and hesitation but not stalling. Only code is out of socket 2, 2-3-3 IAC closed, no other codes. Diagnostic in mode 3 IAC functions, injectors click, radio suppression relay clicks. No codes out of socket 6.
Exhaust is two years old complete Starla exhaust kit, oh also installed new thermostat and replaced oil cap casket.
On my previous 740 sedan, it was a fuel pump, ect and rpm sensor. On this car distrib, rotor and wires were only 2.5 yrs old before dying, regular oil changes fluid checks so was surprised the car died on the hwy. Previous owner installed new IAC and head gasket, all worked great until now.
Spare IAC, and coil did not change situation now wondering if both IAC are bad?...
Rpm sensor on wagon not checked yet, doing that later today.
I think it is air as in not enough or still have a vacuum leak, fuel not really feeling that cause I can rev the car in the garage and once warm it can go no question just the first start of the day
Once my 1992 Volvo 740 wagon warms up after for example a drive to a near by store. I turn it off then try and restart it up and at it will do is make a bunch of cranking noises. It wants to start but it wont. After hours have gone by it will start again and the same issue happens over and over.
I have just recently replaced the fuel injectors, cam crank shaft sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and the distrubitor cap and the car is still having the same exact starting issues.
I can hear the fuel pump rotating before I turn the car over so I know it's at least not the fuel pump under the driver seat. I know it has 2 fuel pumps so I am not sure if the second pump is out?
Today I had the fuel pump relay replaced and so far the car is starting up great without any issues.
Replaced upper radiator coolant hose before I did this. Actual year is 1988. Had been sitting for awhile (1.5 years) before I started working on it. Fuel pumps work fine. Fuel lines look in good condition, no leaking, no rusting. Coolant temp sensor has not been replaced before, as well as fuel pressure regulator. How do I check the fuel line pressure and get my car running again!!!??
Either relay or solenoid. how to determine. Fuse ok
When entering the highway, the 91 volvo 740 wagon has a hard time gaining speed.
needs to cool down to start
Over night, my 740 91volvo would not crank, I turn the key and it is turning over but not cranking, I got a jump let it charge a bit then it crunk. I do not know if I will have the same problem in the morning.
I have a 1988 740 turbo. It was about 30 degrees and snowing and a light came on, on what I assume is for the engine temp (left side above gas gauge). it was flashing then just stayed on. Numbers on the gauge varied between 2 and 30. The heater would not work and the engine was beyond sluggish. Im not to familiar with Volvos (and not a fan) ive never seen this on any other car. This is a $500 car with heaps of problems. What causes this problem and will the car just die if ran extensively like this? I have replaced tons of parts on this car including the water pump which seems to be leaking again. The resevour is still full of coolant.
Before it goes into overdrive. I would like to know if this could also be the Overdrive sylenoid. If so ,where may I find it myself to replace if possible. Since it is an older car, should i use a new or used part,
when starting my car geting crancing noise
The alternator, starter, and battery are fine. But the car does not want to start. Are there any reasons to why it does not want to start?
The back lighting for the instrument panel, climate control, cigarette lighter and gear select are out.
Just went out while driving on the freeway, and has never come back on.
Things I checked:
-Fuse #21 =ok.
-sunroof still works (on same fuse)
Could it be a bad ground to the instrument panel?
Haven't yet explored under dash, any suggestions would be much appreciated!
Can engine run without the mass air sensor
The radio and clock have no power to them, my hubby checked and doesn't think it's the fuses....what else could it be?
took wires off put back 1234 but getting bog
could this be vac leaks or is it map,o2,sensor related? fuel pressure? also will occasionally buck while driving at interstate spd. there is no check engine light on also the speedo has become erratic and the anti lock light is coming on after hitting a bump and now stays on longer/more often
It just hit the 20000 mark could it be something in the drive shift, is it hard to change the bump stop.
I pulled the head and there is a hole burned through the top edge of the piston.
250k runs fine but when i start it sometimes none os the elect. Stuff work (wipers, lights ,windos,blower fan) and if i turn it off some time it wont start up or even turnover at all. But if i wait a few min. It will start up like theres nothing wrong at all. Could this be a brain pob. And if so how much mite that cost.
Fuel exits from regulator. Car does not start when regulator disconnected. (Just thought I'd try. Relay ok (replaced). There had been some prior issues, but ignition repairs (cap, rotor, plugs) cleared that up. Just only starts (and runs great) on the residual gas in rail when fuel line disconnected. (Yes, I direct it into a container away from the exhaust, etc.) No codes come up.
inner tie rod end is bent boot is torn
Problem started a year or more ago and was fairly intermittent, but is worsening. Lately I notice the heat does not blow out as forcefully when the heater is screaming. Could it be the intake air vent for the heater is clogged and if so, where is this located and how do I clean it out? Or is it the heater blower/fan itself?
need to replace
Cranks but wont start, added gas, no gas smell, no sound of fuel pump with key on
i put in one can of 134a but compressor wont come on
can anyone tell me how do i get to the blower motor to replace it
I INSTALLED A NEW FRONT WHEEL BEARING AND I NOW HEAR A GRINDING SOUND COMMING FROM THE FRONT WHEEL.
Got an '88 Volvo 740 wagon, about 250K miles, oil is blowing out past the oil cap. No pcv valve to replace. How do I fix this?