Trunk cannot open with remote nor with push-button on trunk lid itself.
fuel gauge, rear door locks, trunk latch stopped working
Trunk lock doesn't work properly, fuel gauge stays on empty, draining battery, locks inoperative
gas gage and gas door won't open
The back locks and trunk gas gage fuel door problem is common I found two now that its just a loose nut on battery connection just tighten it back down hope this hwlpa
I have been having trunk latch problems (won't open with FOB) for several years now, never been able to fix (must be opened mechanically with key). More recently, my fuel door stopped opening electronically (from the dashboard button), and could only be opened mechanically by pushing the lever inside the trunk behind the fuel door.
Then, I noticed the back doors stopped locking or unlocking (with FOB or interior buttons). This led me to the fuse for those items, and replacing the fuse fixed the fuel door and rear locks. However, after a few weeks, the fuse burnt out again--and now does quickly.
My problems seemed to begin or or around the time I twisted the wire heading to the trunk module (which briefly made the trunk open with the FOB again). Now the light flickers on and off, the "TRUNK LID OPEN" light stays on (even when it is not open), and the fuse burns quickly. I am guessing I have a short somewhere related to that trunk cable--that is burning the fuse. Anyone have similar problems?
The complete dash panel quit working. I.E: fuel gauge, clock, speedometer, cruise control.
Same as described. For now reseating the 10amp REM fuse got it working again. Will get software update next time it's serviced.
The rear electrical module (REM) stops working. This affects the fuel gauge and trunk opening switch. Reset fuse's and reset relay's.