Volvo V70 XC QuestionsRefine by vehicle
ENG.4.3L, AW-42 TRANSMISSION 55,000 MILES ON CAR. I LOOKED UNDER THE AIR BOX AND BATTERY FOR WIRE CONNECTIONS BROKE WIRES ETC READ SOMEWHERE THAT WAS A PROBLEM AREA FOR THIS SWITCH. I ONLY FOUND THE TRANS SELECTION HARNESS. So no luck there Again I'm looking to locate the transmission temperture Switch. I know there are two switch's/sensors on the top of trans. Any help would be Great ! Thanks Everyone, Matt
It is stuck there now and has been for a week.
Also when I put gas in my car it starts but then stalls a couple of times is there a reason for this also - It also stutters sometimes when I am driving
still leaking, where do I go from here?
Replaced pcv system and timing belt too...
The tranny seems to slip intermittently and when it connects there is often a rev and knock. Especially happens on turns where you deccelerate a bit and then accelerate coming out of the turn. It hesitates to kick into gear then "bam"! Sometimes it happens on the highway when you are in higher gears. It is inconsistent. I checked tranny fluid and it was down 3/4 qt and added it. It appears, somehow, to happen less when the tank has at least 1/4 tank of gas in it... When nearing redline it appears to get worse. Car has 110K on it. Ideas?
Normally, the front end makes noise when I turn like a boat rubbing against a dock. steering seems tight and I feel every bump in the road in the steering wheel. On the highway at about 55 mph the car starts to wobble on straightaways, sometimes and on some turns.
I have a 2002 XC70 with 125,000 miles on it. I bought the car used in March of this year, and while it passed a pre-purchase inspection, it developed a hitch between 2nd and 3rd gear shortly thereafter. I haunted web fora and consulted multiple shops. I'd rather ride my bike anyway, so I resolved to drive the car until it died. The slipping and bucking has become much more frequent, and now occurs between most of the lower gears after about 15 minutes of driving. The car is still sound enough (knock on wood) to drive long distances -- just this weekend I drove it 9h without problems, minus a period when the cruise control wouldn't work.
I've been told that I need to replace the transmission and also that I need to replace the solenoid bodies (NB: I had the B4 servo cover replaced, and I might as well have lit $191 on fire). I inquired about a drain and a flush service, and was told by multiple people that both would raise the probability of total transmission failure to 50/50. The car also has a slow radiator leak (something my mechanic said could wait until I have to add coolant every week, and right now I can go 2 weeks without having to top it off), and the throttle body is failing.
Estimated cost of a transmission repair varies from $2000-4000. Radiator service will be $600, and throttle body will be between $600-1000, for an upper end total of $5600-6000.
As far as I know, the engine is sound. Oil has a tendency to disappear (the turbo was serviced right before I bought the car, and I've been told that turbos consume oil), but other than that it seems fine.
Bluebook value is around $5600. MY QUESTION: given that the beast already has 125k miles, is it worth it to plow SOME money into repairs (perhaps not the full amount required) and continue to drive it until it dies (when would that be, anyway?), or should I trade it in and walk away? My brother is a Toyota master tech, and we have been discussing options.
So far, the only thing this experience has taught me is that the five years I spent without a car were the most blissful I will likely ever know.
It smooths out after 10 to 15 seconds. It had a code of cylinder misfire and turbo control valve failure P1237.
what is the ETS warning light?
2001 V70xc AWD Cross Country Transmission will hang up in a high gear when car gets hot. The gear display will go from "D" to a "-". Car will still drive but when stopping, it is like starting off in 4th gear. Turning the car off and restarting it will reset it temporarily but will soon hang up again. "Transmission Service" message is on all the time as well as "Engine Service" message. Will replacing the transmission computer solve this issue?
Over last 2 weeks have had a stall and lack of power issues with my 2000 V70xc. Ran a scan and got these codes:
P1618 fault in lead between AW50-52 and Motronic 4.3
P0722 Output shaft speed sensor, circuit no signal
P1633 vehicle speed signal
P1238 turbo control valve
What are some possible causes for all these codes and is it an easy fix?
my question was when I get in the car and back out of the driveway when I step on the brakes it sounds like air coming out
it happens everytime I get in the car and back out to the main rd but after driving for about 5 mins the sound goes away
after how many miles should a turbo be replaced
at first i had 2 codes 1 for mass air flow turbo control valve I replaced mass air flow.When first start up for first half mile ok then will shut off wile driving start in up some times give it throttle it will die sometimes go very easy to get back to were you were may take restarting 5to10 times to get there
I plan to DIY and need simple solution.
I've only owned it for 4 months so I'm not sure about past maintenance. I replacedthe coils and spark plugs when iI got it. I felt it sputter a few times, like a misfire, so I took it to my Volvo mechanic. He told me the only issue he could find was low/dirty oil. So we did an oil change. It is still having the same issue. When I get on the freeway or speed up to go around someone the engine struggles and the check engine light flashes. City driving is perfect. I do get electrical fluctuations when I use my AC, so I stopped using it, but I still get the shaking on acceleration. I was thinking if I can get help in the forums I can tell my mechanic specifically what to fix so my car doesn't die. I love my car. Its been my dream car for the past decade.
Any idea of the torque settings for the brake callioer brackets and the allen bolts for the brake calliper please?
I would like to change it my self
If I am driving on a flat surface initially it will be fine but once I accelerate up a hill it shudders or bucks almost like it isn't getting enough gas. If I put on the cruise control, the problem seems to disappear. After driving a bit, the problem is present even when idling at say a light. I have taken it to numerous mechanics as well as to the volvo dealership. The dealership said it MIGHT BE a new electrical harness $1400. I responded that $1400 for a might be was a little harsh. Any thoughts or similar experiences out there?
stopped at my mechanic turn it off for one hour, when re-started it everything was working normal, except in the message window appeared "SRS airbags service urgent" What could it be?
Car starts and reves OK. Reverse do not engage from P. Only from D. In a few moments all gears are quitting. Motor reves OK but no forward or reverse movement. After shutting off it goes through same routine...
Soon as I poor water in to the overflow canister it runs out at the back of the engine near the firewall.
replace high beam relay
some times there is a noise coming from left rear when I turn left, but less frequent.
Volvo did a diagnostic scan and came up with 0070 --- which signals the pump motor needs to be replaced. They will not use my brand new factory abs module when doing the replacement but say the whole unit has to be done. Any ideas out there?? thanks
I just had a new battery installed. They also did a software update for a faulty "12 V rear in use" message (when the 12 V rear plug has never been used). Now the car is completely dead. Key fob won't open door locks and nothing happens when I turn the key (no clicking, no nothing). Thoughts?
Just had the turbo quit and strand me in the armpit of NJ on the 23rd. Towed it home to upstate NY. 2 days after passing inspection and having $600 in repairs + inspection for broken tie rods and something else. Now it needs Turbo replaced and driveshaft. Is this really worth it or do I scrap it? Already has a rebuilt tranny. That died at age 5 just under warranty! Now the car had about 145K on it. Will it live long enough to make this worthwhile? Altogether the repairs will run me around $2000-2500 with used parts.
The car is running fine overall but none of the internal gauges work (Temp, Fuel, Speedometer, Odometer, Tach etc) . Oddly enough the check engine light is always on. On occasion the gauges come on and seem to work fine until I turn the car off.
Overall the car seems to be running fine. Is this a known issue or has anyone else experienced this? I'm guessing that if I take this to the dealer it will cost more to fix it than the car is worth. Any recommendations?
my car wont start and im not sure why i think its my alternator. when i try to start the car the first time it will turn over and run for like 2-3 secs and then turn off and when i try again it jus makes a ticking noise like my battery is but but at the same time i'll be getting a jump and that goes to show its not my battery.