Volvo S70 Questions
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the entire front passenger seat began wearing and splitting only 2 years after purchase. never had this happen before ! we are not heavy people. expensive investment !
Two owners, 206K miles, maintenance records up to 186K miles. I picked the car up with 1/8th tank of gas. I was told it ran fine on minimum grade fuel, so I filled it up. Drove it 44 miles home and parked it in the garage. I started it this morning and it would not stay running. Could it be the low grade gas? I am going to try one of the octane boosters /PEA by Chevron to see if the works. If not, fuel pump?
does the sensor pull out from tube like housing?
Over past 9 months my Volvo runs fine, but has several warning lights. First the radiator coolant light came on, but the car runs at normal temp. Then ABS light started coming on, but usually goes off after I drive about 20 MPH...occasionally it come back on. Then the SRS light came on steady (around 125-130K miles). Then the brake and ABS light came on and the odometer went blank and speedometer stopped working. Then the lights went our and all was normal again. The "flashing arrow" now comes and goes. Are all of the car's major systems dying or is an electrical computer "brain" failing and in need of replacement? Car being shipped from Europe; need servicing when arrives in SEP.
The car has been sitting still for six months. All dashboard lights come on when the ignition switch is turned on.
when I drive over bump I hear a rumbling sound in left front.
suggestions as to what it might be?
ive taken out all 4 screwes and the fan i still cant remove it from engine block need help
its been broken down for a while and i was told that it was
that part needed changed
The open trunk light is on on the dashboard but the trunk is completely closed. I can't find a switch anywhere in the trunk to would automatically close when the trunk closes. Any ideas on how to shut it off?
timing beth broken
the car was running great until the inspection was up needed a camshaft pos. sensor and a o2 sensor replaced both then the motor started running very rough and felt like it droped 2-3 cylinders have spar at all of them then pulled the injectors one at a time and saw that there was no change in cylinders 2 4 aqnd 5 then hooked it up to a scan tool and it will not respond im startingto think it may be the pcm can anyone help me?
PROBLEM HAS OCCURRED TWICE IN PAST TWO WEEKS. STARTED AND DROVE CAR WITHOUT PROBLEM 30-50 MILES. PARKED ON LOT. AFTER SEVERAL HOURS RESTARTED CAR BUT AT THAT TIME AIR CONDITIONER, POWER WINDOWS, RADIO AND FANS DID NOT WORK. FIRST TIME SAT WITH ENGINE RUNNING AND AFTER ABOUT 10-15 MINUTES ALL POWER SPONTANEOUSLY RESTORED (AM NOT SURE IF TRIED TO TURN IGNITION OFF AND ON INITIALLY. IF I DID, THERE WAS NO CHANGE). SECOND TIME, TWO WEEKS LATER WITHOUT INTERIM PROBLEM, STARTED CAR WITHOUT PROBLEM, DROVE TO
40 MILES AND PARKED ON OPEN LOT, AFTER SEVERAL HOURS RETURNED TO CAR AND STARTED ENGINE WITH SAME PROBLEMS- AIR CONDITIONER, POWER WINDOWS, RADIO AND FANS DO NOT WORK . OUTSIDE TEMP IN 90'S. DROVE TO COVERED LOT (10 MINUTES), SAT WITH ENGINE RUNNING (TOTAL TIME ABOUT 30 MINUTES) WITH NO CHANGE. TURNED IGNITION SWITCH NOT ALL THE WAY OFF-CAUSED AN ENGINE "FLUTTER" SENSATION AS EXPECTED WHEN IGNITION IN IN BETWEEN STAGE - AND THEN SPONTANEOUSLY IMMEDIATELY ALL POWER RESTORED (A/C, RADIO AND FANS TURNED ON AT ONCE AND WINDOW POWER WORKED. THEN TURNED IGNITION ENTIRELY OFF AND THEN ON WITHOUT PROBLEMS. LET CAR SIT FOR FEW HOURS UNTIL TEMPS OUTSIDE LOWERED. RESTARTED CAR AND DROVE HOME WITHOUT INCIDENT. NEXT DAY DROVE WITHOUT INCIDENT (WITH WINDOWS OPEN JUST IN CASE).
THIS IS A NEW PROBLEM.
2ND PROBLEM. (RELATED OR UNRELATED?)
OLD PROBLEM-YEARS. SPORADICALLY (AT VARYING INTERVALS-CAN BE WEEKS OR MONTHS) WITH FIRST OF THE DAY ENGINE START UP FIND TOTALLY DEAD BATTERY RESTORED WITH HOT SHOT. CAN THEN IMMEDIATELY TURN OFF AND THEN RESTART ENGINE WITH FULL POWER. NO OBVIOUS SOURCE OF BATTERY DRAIN (LOOKED FOR ANY VISIBLE SOURCE-FOUND NONE). NOT RELATED TO TIME SITTING. REPLACED BATTERIES MULTIPLE TIMES AT RELATIVELY SHORT INTERVALS, REPLACED CABLES BUT PROBLEM PERSISTS. DEALER SERVICE CAN NOT FIND CAUSE.
I have narrowed it down to the Air Pump CHECK Valve that needs to be replaced on my 98 Volvo S70 GLT but I cannot find where it is located! I have read that if water makes it into the Air Pump- the culprit is more than likely the Air Pump Check Valve.
my will satart and stay running but wont rev
my will satart and stay running but wont rev
The car stalls when I brake, even when i'm turning and braking. To start the car I would have to give it some gas
It seems to have first couple gears, but when ggoing faster than 60 it wont shlift anymore. Winter/wet mode arrow is always blinking and check engine light is always on. How do i fix this?
I just started having problems with my A/C. It surges when blowing the air out of the vents. The air is cold, but the air may not blow at all for a while then all of a sudden air will come out at full force then after a few seconds it will quit or almost quit blowing again. Any idea of what the fix would be?
check engine light came on indicating problem with cooling temp. sensor. Fan started to stay on even when engine cold and Temp gauge shows car overheating even when engine cold. Replaced Fan relay, cooling temp sensor and thermostat. Same problems. Told it might be computer gone bad and may need to rebuild. Any suggestions.
where to order the key ignition barrel.
car key can not take out after parked, don't know where to buy the key ignition barrel, I am in Italy right now.
second problem, engine check light on, after replace the two sensor, only work for 1 day, the same engine check light on come back again.
As I drove the car from parked position a few car lengths a loud popping noise from left rear wheel followed by loud sustained squeek occurred and I stopped immediately. A few more tries produced the same thing. I parked the car for towing to shop. The popping noise sound like metal gripping metal being yanked away by great force.
Recently got a hand car wash. When I left the place I noticed that the SRS airbag warning light came on and stayed on. Could the service people have touched something to cause this problem? Thanks.
what is cost to replace engine
I am considering buying this model, but first impressions left me wondering at various minor electrical quirks. Having previously owned Volvos, I know the electronics are bound to go weird, but I also know I can trust the engine to the end of the world and back, so I'd be willing to put up with these oddities... One of them was the left turn signal (it has the cruise on it) not disengaging. Nothing major as far as I can figure, but I'd rather get it fixed, and am wondering the price range.
the instrument panel after the car drive for 10 minutes more or less, is not given a steady readind,the spedometer, the temperature gage, the gas needle, and the tacometer needle start to moving up and down like crazy !!!
what is the posible cause of this??
Generally runs well, but idles very, very rough when warm.
significant wind noise approaching higher speeds--appears to be coming from the windshield area. is a prob on our 98 as well.
I have had my s70 to several shops and now it is down to the #1 cylinder has no compression. How much and how long do you think it would take to replace a benr valve
The rediator was replace but coolant continues to link.