Volvo S60 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
AS stated above, at times when I go to start my car (cold or warm), It seems to struggle to turn over and at times it just fires right up. This has been going on now for 6 months, Till 2 days ago I was at the store and when I got back inot my car and tried to star it it jsut made a grinding sound and slowly started to struggle more and more as if the battery was dead. I sort of pumped the accel a bit (but! that is pointless with all the electronics) And I let it sit 30 sec. tried to start it again it made that horrible slow grinding sound again, then all of a sudden it made a pop and the engine started right up. It was idling smoothly and as normal and drove home Onegin quiet/smooth ran normal.
I just assumed it was the battery since it is the orig battery. I have had AAA come out they ran a diagnostics and found the battery , to mine and his amazement, was in grt shape fully charging 600A. The diagnostic checked the alternator and starter as well, The starter showed some declining in voltage below 12V and dropped (meter down to below 8 volts during start up. So! he said the problem is with the starter.
Now here is my concern!, Even though this is a 2008 S60, which means 8 yrs old!. I only have 18,500 real/orig miles on this car I am the original owner and purchased new.
I have had no issues in fact this has been one super nice trouble free car. Well up till this started!! :).
Again when all this is going on the dashboard instruments, (check engine light doesn't light up except during starts of course) and on board messaging center give no warnings or alerts to a problem.
Aren't starters typically have a life span of 100K and up , not 18K.. :((
I read it could be as minor as dirt that may have gotten into the connector (electrical) or a cracked connector or exposed wire, insulation is cut near the starter, or a flywheel issue, etc.. If a flywheel , well that raises even more!!! questions
This week I was driving and somehow I hit the tiptronic so too hard that I broke the rocker arm. The car was reading the tip tronic, but wouldn't lock in D gear, So I drove home in the loose tiptronic, once I got home it was a struggle to get the gear into park, but after some wrestling around I got it in P. Found the spring loose, so I pulled it out of the shifter box.
After some research I had my mechanic replace the rocker arm. It locks and functions perfectly, but once I put the gear into D, just as quickly it becomes gear 1 on both the shifter light and dashboard computer.
Please let me know if they did not do the best job fixing it or if its a larger issue now like the computer.
I'm really in a shit whole and could use any help that I can.
The car has now 68750mi on it. And so far so good with electrical parts but the passenger window keep rebelling itself.
This what happens: When commanded to close automatically, after the window hit full close it returns to open, like something is jamming it.
Visual check and nothing unusual with it.
The more curious thing about it, sometimes the right window does this too.
Sunroof never show this kind of behavior.
Battery is new, bosh 80amp.
I need some problem with my car gear box.It is very jerky transition when my gearbox too hot.Always descending from 2th gear to 1th,I feel big jerk .
my fuel gauge only reads half a tank when I just put 17 gallons in. My trunk lid opens and rear doors lock so could it still be REM?
The is a massage on the car that reads "ENGINE SYSTEM SERVICE URGENT". also the triangle in the middle of the gauges is lighting red. What is wrong with the car, please help.
the problem started a day ago when I open door the radio use to go off now it don't I keep getting this meassage saying car is not in park, I try deleting meassage. that don't work.or resetting meassages I still get the same meassages car only have 30,000 miles on it.
I got Transmission Service Required message and the check engine
light is on. My husband thinks the transmission fluid is low and we want to check it. Is there even a dipstick? There is also a "bump" when I am stopped at a stoplight, the transmission shifts perfectly.
I have just picked up my car and on the way home driving on the highway, I accelerated to <3000 rpm, and as it hit the 3k rpm it lurked.
lid is two piece. Mine is the plastic part with license plate holder
It started a while ago and does it all the time. It does not have the pick up that it used to have. I don't want to hurt the car by driving a lot.
So i recently replaced control arm on passenger side due to worn bushing. I repleaced both front struts as well as ball joints, just as routine maintanance as i do have 160,000 miles on the vehicle. So ealry mornings no problems but afternoon or with increased drive when i turn to the right side i hear a sort of grinding noise.More of a noise that you would hear when playing cards would run along your old bike spokes... for those of you who remember the good old days. I do hear the noise when i turn to the left however its coming from the passenger side. Any ideas?
WHEN I BRAKE TO SLOW DOWN OR BRAKE TO TURN VEHICLE STILL hesitates sometime engine cuts off
Emmanuel Komu,East Africa
Emmanuel Komu,East Africa
it still runs good no problem, just having problems putting gas
'spilt some coffee in the console that gummed up the linkage. problem looked at by local mechanic and volvo dealership. mess cleaned up. car still loses power and won't start up again. i read somewhere (and now can't find the site) that the underlying problem might have to do with a power module?
on and it saying that I need Catalic Converter. This is been going on for 4 years now. Within the last year my transmission is slipping between 1st and 2nd gear but once im in 3rd gear it drives fine - Im experencing some jerking between gears - Ive had the software updated maybe 3 years ago when I first experienced some jerking it did go away now its back and I'm shopping for a transmission - please help anyway possible
My 2003 s60 is a 5speed MANUAL transmission, no problems what so ever. I do have a loss of engine power and after replacing a MAF and MAP sensor, the car is still sluggish and bogs down. My volvo mechanic did a diagnostic trace and it said software upgrade needed. Can this truly fix a problem like this?
the trunk Lid was damage accidentally and cannot close properly later. The body shop charged almost $4000. What to DIY.
turbo shows no indication of problem
Since most of my Volvos are standard transmission cars, I have always operated the brake and accelerator with my right foot. While I've never had a problem with my 200,000+ mi. 245 wagon, this technique has resulted in near rear end collisions twice in the last three months!!The problem appears to be that the brake pedal, when marginally depressed, is at the same height as the accelerator. Thus, when I rotate my foot to brake, it is 'way too easy to engage the accelerator as well! It seems that if I could add height (in the form of a thicker rubber pad?) to the brake pedal, it might solve the problem. I really don't want to embark on a crash course (no pun intended!) to learn to brake with my left foot (I still own 4 manual Volvos!). ANY HELP would be most appreciated! PS. I have size 10 feet5: surely others have experienced this problem??
The cluster is out and everything else works on the car but the manual does not show the fuse for the cluster. Many Thanks.
if i hold the brake and mash the gas peddle nothing happens it will not rev up and if i put it in manual shift it will not go into gear at all
Just recently noticed, after I had new tires (all 4) put on, when trying to drive up my driveway (steep incline) the car has a thunking noise 3-4 times. This is something totally new with my 2005 S60 AWD Turbo. And I do notice a thunk noise when I start up from a total stop. Otherwise the car drives great on the highway.
Could it be something was disconnected when they put new tires on and replaced the front right tie rod?
Love this car, don't want anything to go wrong with it. Any help would be appreciated.
For about a year and half, my car has this problem. I will start it up and I go a little ways and I get a message saying reduced engine performance; also engine light is on and the big light in the middle above the steering wheel comes on and it sounds like it is running on one cylinder and will almost literally stop. It might stop that and be ok for a while, then start this again.