Volkswagen Passat QuestionsRefine by vehicle
It also said, HO2s 2 bank heater
the steering wheel is a little bit hard and the power steering signal lamp is orange what to do?
I lose power and the transmission don't will not pull
It has not overheated it works fine wat could it bee ?
The time delay defeats any fast response to problems. The idle is fast enough that I have to hold the brake engaged when waiting at stoplights or signs. The delay causes a wait time before proceeding. when merging into moving traffic this can be a problem.
Hi there, i just bought a wv passat, been working on my girl for a while to make check engine light go away first was the maf sensor i replaced and fix wires than had a misfire so by default replace coils. She runs perfect with new coils, my ride its standard, now i have a lot more power at least 20hp more rhan before but check light its on and code p0354 shows up, i erased it a couple of times but no luck. I mean do i have to drive it so pc can work with new resistence parameters? Rewarding tech sheets, pc will hold old codes till pc get used tonew item.... i never heard that before but, who am i to judge.... if some one can give me a hand i will really apreciate it
Oil pressure dropped driving down highway then car lost power
Tested the oil pump pressure and it stays about halfway then with in a minute it drops way down to almost no pressure at all!
Dealer wants $300.00 to fix it. Said they have to replace the entire tail light assembly. That's outrageous!
And sometimes it will start back and it will idiol real high
1st issue at 40,000 miles needed to have the "Water Pump Replaced (was originally going to be charged from Dealership over $800 but after I mentioned calling VW Corporate - the price dropped dramatically from $800 to $110. (yeah - car was still under warranty shouldn't have been charged at all - even got my $110 back) then in June of 2013 the EC "Engine Fault Workshop" message came on - was told is was a faulty Throttle Pedal Assembly - I had to have it replaced (3 times within a 2 week period I kept having to bring it back to dealership because even after it was replaced the EC light continued to come on more "Throttle body issues, ie wiring, etc. Then in June 2014 EPC light is on - brought it to another dealership was told it was "Internal Defect in Throttle Body" - replaced that Then in July, 2015 EPC light is back on brought it to Dealership - cause communication loss - dismissed - 2 weeks later August EPC light back on lose power won't accelerate bring it back - now told its the Throttle Pedal Assembly having that replaced now. Please help - is this a major issue with vw that I will have to deal with for the life of this car? Should I sell now- or is this poor workmanship from Dealerships?
cool air until the car has been running for a few minutes. Is there an issue with my a/c? My warranty ends in October of this year. Thank you for any help.
I just replaced the Hazzard Switch a few months ago for both turn signals, now just the right turn signal is out! This happened after I got it back from having my alternator replaced as well as the headlight. Do I need to replace the switch again to get the right blinker to work?
Shut off engine ,forgot something in home came out started eng. It stalled.
Restarted eng. Stalled,tried to start again,didn't turn over at all.Tried to remove key fob from ignition, wouldn't release. Still stuck in ignition. Tried all
Recommend fixes,only thing that works is Alarm and radio???
I am try to reset the timing chain from the camsharft and cranksharft
What is the most likely repair and cost?
Aproxametly how much would this repair be and would it be worth it for a passa y t with 110,000 mi, 2006 a d seems like nothing else is wrong with it
The EPC light is flashing and the pick up has become sluggish and rough.Is it the alternator???
Considering buying for my daughter a 2005 Passat GLX 4motion with 145k miles and good upkeep from dealer who purchased it at auction. Looks and rides great and title appears clear but I'm concerned about the higher mileage (should I be?) plus the noise-enhanced exhaust (pricey? complicated to remove/replace?).
changed the batterie the remote key. what else can i try
Extended Warranty doesn't want to replace timing belt due to pulley causing slippage/breakage. I have two estimates that recommend replacing with used engine.
What causes this problem?