1,846
questions

Horn stopped working. Had it repaired. Horn failed again 6 weeks later. Repaired again. Month later, horn not working.

The only way to put it in drive is to stick your finger in the gear shift hole and pull on something. I don't know what I'm touching or the name of it. I just know it unlock the gear.

The car act like it wants to crank but it won't. Does this problem have anything to do with a recall and how can it be fixed?

History- (short)
1. Currently having leaks of coolant popping up continuously everywhere it seems. going on for about 3 months.
2. Engine makes a ticking sound and becoming more progressive with time.
3. starting to smell gas in oil. immediately after I changed it.
4. Malfunction light- exhaust temperature sensor is a problem. Could this alone be the cause for the rest?
5. Had radiator replaced 3-5 months ago.
6. Temperature sensor use to be an ongoing issue and have had thermostat "stuck". Need to check still.
7. Keep noticing that my coolant reserve cap keeps coming loose. seems to shut Ok though.
8. Had the "engine block only" replaced 1.5 years ago with used block from junk yard. Problem caused by a lack of oil. Had oil change one month prior though and had checked it days before engine failed. (deal seemed shady and oil changed by the same guy who "replaced" the engine).
There was no compression in the engine. I saw this done myself but I would have believed whatever he showed at the time.

Rough idle, car engine burns hot but thermo-gauge doesn't show this.
I had used those STOP LEAK pellets for the coolant at one time, before radiator was replaced.

Jetta, 1.8 turbo, 6 speed manual transmission, having trouble pushing shifter into 1st gear, balance gears are ok and smooth. No issues in pick up and driving, only annoying during traffic time, and I have to lift up in 2nd gear because I'm unable to push into 1st gear. Sometimes reverse gives issues, but not that as bad as 1st. 1st gear sometimes can work, but I have shift really fast and sometimes, very seldom it will allow me to shift in 1st, any advise would be very much appreciated, thanks!

Motor shut down probably by the oil pressure switch. Drained oil, replaced oil pan and refilled. Motor cranks but won't start. Was told to replace the pressure switch but still only cranks. No code read on my OBD II reader.

Sometimes when it sits a while it will start back up again and sometimes it may take a day. This happens randomly

I need to know the location of the output speed sensor on my 2010 Jetta SE 2.5. Please help me!

when I turn my ac and heat on no air will blow out until the highest setting (4) but when on 4 the air that is blowing is air from the outside so it is not the ac or heat. I replaced the fan switch and that made it work for about a week. it just broke again. please help me

Driving for a while When at a light or stop sign give the car gas the rpm increased then a jolt

I'm looking to purchase a 2006 VW Jetta 2.5 and they brought it to their mechanic and the mechanic said it needs a new catalytic converter. I m wondering how important the cat is. When I test drove the car it seemed to run and sound good. The car has low miles and is at a good price and I don t want to turn it down if the cat isn t a big deal

When trying to start engine cranks but don't start , there is power when I connect obd2 to car computer there is no comunication.

AC works with air from outside when traveling fast for airflow

Yes the three wire plug broke off and I need to remove the rest from bottom case of compressor, thanks.

Alternator is putting out steadily 14.0 volts . VW Jetta Trek model"B"

The warning líght comes on as a check when the ignition is switched on

catalytic converter replaced 2x only has 100,000 miles

Car keys get stuck in ignition when the my car is on and I try to turn my car off.

I replaced remote battery. I can open trunk lid from emergency trunk release by going through back seat. Occasioally can get trunk to open by waving remote near trunk but not consistently. Dealership wants well over 300 to look for problem.

Heating pressure blow hose off over drain bottle

It started as a cooling fan running all the time while key is on. Battery tested fine but will die if the key is in aux. radio has high frq squeal when brakes are used and some times when turning. Seems to be worse in wet weather. Wipers are erratic at times. Check engine light was showing P 2185 -sensor was replaced. CEL comes on for a couple days and goes out for a couple. Low tire light comes on after CEL comes on. Put air in rear tire and it goes but may be a separate issue ( nail etc)

sometimes lights still on until I open the front door and I close it again. all of this while driving.

Should I delete the whole P.C.V system intirely. If so I still need to hook the break booster vaccume somewhere so that it could still do its job, in assuming breaks are important so deleting that's not a question. feel free to chime in any time.... another route would be to go with the 1 piece silicone kit witch will do away with all the cheep hoses and clamp from the o,e,m VW ones they use. I do understand what the pcv valve does and as well as the suction jet pump is there and honestly I don't see a reason te run a check valve.
So the point is nobody but old school VW and audi mechanics seem to be the ones who wanna push the whole use o.e.m v.w expensive parts. if its there its there for a reason stuff I get that but this is not one of them. But I wanna hear an actual discussion on the issue. the purpose of running one and then the benefits and of the reasons why some of us don't run them. If I went big turbo and aggressive tune maybe that would change the theory. But as of right now I do not know the answer these guys I joined this group today see how fast this page can get answers out there

i bought the car like that but needs to be inspected before hiting the road...

New battery new starter the fuel pump is making noise and is working could it be a fuse or a computer chip? I kind of think it might be the fuse for the injectors number 32 I believe it is

Very inconsistently-not many miles to be transmission?

What does it mean when my electrical power steering light comes on and car is hard to start. How much to fix this problem

We have tried changing the fuel pump and other stuff and yet havnt had the chance to drive it itbkeeps making sounds but does not want to turn on

My abs light will come on and then my e break light will flash and it stops after about a minute but when I shut my car off it won't start back up. All my dash lights disappear the radio won't turn on its like my battery is completely gone. I took my battery out and checked it, had 12 Volts, I put it on the charger and then put it back in, car started right up as if nothing happened... it just happened again too, what could be the issue?

I just replaced the compressor, which turned out to not be the issue at all as it is still not blowing cold on the highway. Not even the dealer ship can diagnose the problem. My guess, it has a high pressure vacuum leak. But I'm just here for another opinion. The car only has 40k on it and it's the SE model.