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Alternator is putting out steadily 14.0 volts . VW Jetta Trek model"B"
have checked everything.still not working
I only drive the car in the summer hence abs is not needed is there any harm in disconnecting the system.
The warning líght comes on as a check when the ignition is switched on
catalytic converter replaced 2x only has 100,000 miles
Car keys get stuck in ignition when the my car is on and I try to turn my car off.
My car shakes slight as I start to pull at 80mph at low Rpms
No warning light. Pull off the road . Turn off engine . Turn back on , hard to put into gear. Nothing leaking ?
I replaced remote battery. I can open trunk lid from emergency trunk release by going through back seat. Occasioally can get trunk to open by waving remote near trunk but not consistently. Dealership wants well over 300 to look for problem.
I have 167,000 miles on my Jetta. I commute 300 miles to go to work once a week. During freeway speeds, when I have to brake fast in traffic, it throws my transmission off. Will be slow at shifting. All I have to do is pull over, turn off my car and restart it, it corrects it until the next time. I had the solenoids replaced a couple years ago. I am assuming it is electrical? Also, I turned my car off, lights set at off and the driver side would not shut off. I got in drove around the block and they shut off. Electrical again? Thank you for comments. Sharon
po 442 small leak
Heating pressure blow hose off over drain bottle
My car has been through 2 "certified" mechanics, including my local Audi dealership. As well as myself trying to fix the problem. My Passat misfires constantly, I've replaced spark plugs, ignition coils, and the air filter. Audi replaced the connections to my coils. (I did my repairs before taking it to Audi). The last thing I can think of is a failing ECU. If there is another option I can look into please let me know.
I have a 2010 Volkswagen Passat 2.0t an jus the other day it started shutting off but I had almost a full tank. So I was sitting tryna cut it on but wen I put it in drive an try to accelerate it cuts back off. So I got it towed home an a machanic came off an put the diagnostic test on an it say it was the fuel pressure regulator so I went the next day an bought that he put it on an it was driving fine so later that day I went out an it started doin the same problem it was doin before I got the part. So I don't know what it could be do anyone have any suggestions please. An Thankyou ..
It started after driving for about an hr.
It started as a cooling fan running all the time while key is on. Battery tested fine but will die if the key is in aux. radio has high frq squeal when brakes are used and some times when turning. Seems to be worse in wet weather. Wipers are erratic at times. Check engine light was showing P 2185 -sensor was replaced. CEL comes on for a couple days and goes out for a couple. Low tire light comes on after CEL comes on. Put air in rear tire and it goes but may be a separate issue ( nail etc)
Have 2010 TDI golf.Llive in Fairfax county virginia.Can't pass emission
test. Dealer says I have to drive it for 2 to 3 hours to heat engine. I've done this 3 times and still can't pass. What do I have to do. I've put now 3+hundred miles,gas and time trying to heat engine up. What can I do.
sometimes lights still on until I open the front door and I close it again. all of this while driving.
Whhow do i get to the plastic piece to the turbo so i can put a clamp on it
do I need to replace turbo ?
Should I delete the whole P.C.V system intirely. If so I still need to hook the break booster vaccume somewhere so that it could still do its job, in assuming breaks are important so deleting that's not a question. feel free to chime in any time.... another route would be to go with the 1 piece silicone kit witch will do away with all the cheep hoses and clamp from the o,e,m VW ones they use. I do understand what the pcv valve does and as well as the suction jet pump is there and honestly I don't see a reason te run a check valve.
So the point is nobody but old school VW and audi mechanics seem to be the ones who wanna push the whole use o.e.m v.w expensive parts. if its there its there for a reason stuff I get that but this is not one of them. But I wanna hear an actual discussion on the issue. the purpose of running one and then the benefits and of the reasons why some of us don't run them. If I went big turbo and aggressive tune maybe that would change the theory. But as of right now I do not know the answer these guys I joined this group today see how fast this page can get answers out there
Iwas driving my 08 vw passat when the air stopped blowing cold the radio shut off all the dash lights came on and the power steering went out and then it died
i bought the car like that but needs to be inspected before hiting the road...
New battery new starter the fuel pump is making noise and is working could it be a fuse or a computer chip? I kind of think it might be the fuse for the injectors number 32 I believe it is
Cool now it's just blows hot air A/C clutch & Compressor are working full of freon what's wrong
I need to buy a new pair of front axles for my 03 Passat. I need some info on what company makes a decent product? Anyone with some input on where to buy the best axles. Price range , $150- 200.. Thanks for the help. I live in Oregon, if that helps?
Very inconsistently-not many miles to be transmission?
it stops right before the boot lid swing out part. After it cools down a bit by me driving it, it works just fine.
My car w/49,000 miles on it stalled driving 60 mph on the highway -- towed to VW - there for a week couldn't figure out why it stalled. Happened a 2nd time with 70K miles on it - now they tell me I need a new fuel pump.. anyone else with this issue? VW dealership quoted over $900 to replace fuel pump. Call a few other import repair shops and they were in the $500 range. Outrageous.
I have replaced the ignition coils, spark plugs, and the air filter. It was running fantastic (engine light remained on) until I accelerated quickly. I toke it to my local auto-zone, where they plug in the handheld computer and it came up with 9 codes. 3 were for the misfires, one relating the mass air flow sensor. The problem seems to be worse after 2,000 RPM and gets slightly better if above 3,000. But when I come to a stop the car will jerk back and forth. And be visibly shaking.