Toyota Sienna QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Its fine in park and neutral BUT HAS A VIBRATION IN DRIVE AND REVERSE wasn't there before.
It passed the fuel cap test.
Sludge buildup has caused the engine to overuse oil, and now a valve is bad, so it can't pass inspection again. The van is in otherwise fine shape. If I try to sell it, I'd like to know what is a reasonable price to ask for someone willing to take on the work or expense of replacing the engine.
It is a light colored oil
I have 2 Sienna vans 2004 & 2011. Sliding doors are a major problem and I fear the doors are going to open and someone fall out while I am driving. Toyota needs to recall before someone gets killed.
my front doors will not open or close using remote pod or switches on inside of door.
I know there are four lights on the rear, only two are working (the brakes) which are located on the side of the body, but the two located on the door are not working, pls. let me know how to replace the bulbs
Well there's nothing else to say, why would this happen to a car supposedly in good condition? This happened to me on the I-95 this year.
And dash lights that lit up now no longer there.
It drove fine yesterday but today it started having trouble going up hills and eventually quit moving forward. Checked the transmission fluid and it is ok.
need to replace the rear seats in my van
Bought this car and it had 380000 miles on it . After I drove for 20000 mile pep boy guy told me the axle shaft assembly right side is leaking need to be replace. It will cost 400+ dealers refuse to fix it under it warranty. I know there was a recall for this problem in 2010.
my back seat was failure after when i makt it down
At what point, if any, will Toyota acknowledge that the "spider cracks" in the dashboards are not just the fault of sun, but a manufacturer's defect? How many cases must occur?
When does government get involved? Thanks.
I have recently replaced the fuel sending unit. The new unit seems to work, but does not travel the full extent of the range. In other words, it will only show 1/2 or 1/3 of a full tank, then when the fuel is burned, will start to drop normally. It appears that the new unit may be hanging up on a baffle in the tank. I had thought I had put it in at the same angle as the old one, but now am not sure. Any advise as to the correct position of the unit would be very helpful. My service manual told me the appropriate resistance measurements that the unit should be sending (thus my decision to replace the faulty sending unit), but doesn't give information on the exact placement of the new unit in the tank.
I broke one of five studs of the front hub can I replace just one or do I have to get a new hub?