478
questions

Is it more likely a belt or a pump?

cost for inspection of belts and radiator flush

the shoes are still good

How hard is it to add oil to the differential? Can this vehicle be driven in 2 wheel drive without the rear wheel drive?

Hi All,

About 3 years ago, our 2011 Toyota Highlander (6-cylinder, not a hybrid) started having a very wet floor (as in very damp to the touch, and the bottom of the mats were always wet) and smelling mildew-y. Turns out that the tube running from some part of the air conditioner that exhausts out water got a spider-web in it; so whenever we used the air conditioner, water couldn’t drain out and started overflowing from something and into the car. We ended up having to tear out and replace all the carpets, having all sorts of mold/mildew remediation, etc. Took something like 2-3 weeks; not fun. The actual “fix” for the problem (not the fix for all the damage) was apparently just taking canned air and spraying out the tube to get the web out. We were told that spiders building webs like this is a known issue but that there is no way to stop it.

Fast forward to yesterday – we again have a wet floor (although maybe not quite as wet but the mats are wet on the bottom), the mildew smell, etc. We obviously haven’t been using the air conditioning recently (we’re in NJ), but I’m assuming that using the defroster could have the same effect. So, if there is a spider web there, it looks like I may have to have that removed, and then tear out all the carpets and go through all the mold/mildew remediation again.

Am I looking at this correctly? Could it be something else? My wife drives the car, and she doesn’t remember driving through any huge puddles recently. Any thoughts, help or insight would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I seem to remember that last time, the mechanic at the dealership we went to said that from inside the car, near where the driver’s or front passenger’s knees are (I forget which), there is a panel that can be removed and the exhaust tube accessed. Anyone know anything about this?

Thanks for any help.

I was told that the bolt for the oil pan is stripped and I need a new oil pan because of the bolt.

I was told that the bolt for the oil pan is stripped and I need a new oil pan.

I was told to have front brakes replaced because pads may be dry? Also told there may be a problem with brake proportion valve. No problems noted with braking.

The auto technician tried to disconnect a wire from the bonnet area and the vibration stopped, but the ABS and brake light was now showing on the dashboard. When he reconnected it, the light went off but the vibration returned again. what is the solution to this problem

New bulbs, correct sizes, but keep blowing fuses. Any advice?

What needs to be checked?

I hit one of those weighted barriers in a construction zone. Now I need a bracket for the passenger side fog light but I cannot find one

There were error messages

On an all wheel drive 2002 Highlander. Rear hubs and bearings were replaced approximately 20k miles ago. Needing to again be replaced.

It has happened at least 8 times. I took it in and they say they don't know since there isn't an error code. It started at 10,000 miles and is still doing it at 20,000. This doesn't make since. Even if everything is computerized there has to be something technical going on. Would like this fixed before it's out of warranty. It just shuts off then I have to turn it back on again. And no it's not on auto. It has happened at different degrees and speeds.

Just wondering if a faulty brain box can make the engine to be firing on its own irregularly, causing the rpm to be going up and down when not engaged but when it is engaged with my leg on the break pedal,the rpm comes down to the first mark thereby causing the engine not to steam normally.Also intermittently the car will fire itself and then becomes normal and then goes back to steam irregularly with the rpm dropping again.But when the car accelerate,it seems ok.

I changed all of the o2 sensors on Highlander but check engine light is still present. b1s1 which was the first changed. B1s2 was third changed and no code showning now. But b1s1 Appears again. No hoses are off and has been reset several times by battery as well this code device and after a few seconds of running the car the check engine light comes back on. What should I do now? Plz help lady in distressed.

When I keep my foot on the gas gently it keeps running, if I lift off it dies. I kept my foot on it to see if warming up the car would do anything and then it worked. What is happening? My mechanic couldn't find a problem because he needs it to be in this state before he can fix it. Then charged me to tell me he couldn't do anything!