Toyota Echo QuestionsRefine by vehicle
head light high beam working but low beam not working.pls give me suggestion
a rattle in top left moter.just a littler to start with now most of the time sounds like a pulley lose we have no code for this
car has new compressor, drier, expansion valve and cabin fan. Renew cabin fan because it nwould not run new fan will not run to.
The problem started after I had disconnected the battery and then reconnected the battery, no check light
wait a while then it starts
i change the Throttle Position Sensor but nothing changed could it be a idle air control valve issue
on after i ve been driving for awhile
My dash board lights went off nothing works then the clutch also not engaging. Used the small red nob to engage the gear used it but later the red light for temp came on. Whats the problem. Is it senor switch or man swtich and why clutch not engageing normally without forcing.
where is the 4th cylender located top one or bottom one
i changed the spark plugs (original)120k changed MAF sensor i got a too rich code and low fuel code
if i drive up a hill it will downshift and engine purrs, but regular driving i get whiplash (like learning to drive a stick LOL) if you have an idea what i should check next i would appreciate it
AIR INJECTION - filed diagnostic test said, mass air flow circut+ air temp.sensor circut
I have removed rim & can not get drum to come off.
How much should it cost to replace an oil pump for my 2002 Echo? Most places estimate about $600 but the dealer and another place estimate about $1100. Why such a discrepancy in pricing?
i looked under dash but dont see the fuse box and i dont have the manual anymore
Although I am located in Toronto, Canada, it would appear that I have a similar problem to other queries.
On May 22, 2012, 104,000 km service performed (actual mileage 103,206)by an independent garage. Engine light on June 5th; computer advised problem due to code EVAP. Gas cap tightened, system reset; light off.
Thereafter, I have returned 4 times (gas cap seal reversed, rust removed from gas tank intake,and finally, a new gas cap was purchased). Invariably, the engine light would come on again 2 to 3 days after refueling. However, the last time the light came on was 2 days after the system had been reset. I am now being advised to go to a Toyota dealership and that I may be facing a bill of $3 - $400.00.
Was also advised to simply ignore the engine light being on; but of course this may eventually mask another problem.
Before consulting a Toyota dealership, I would appreciate any and all advise inasmuch as I was once advised by a dealership that the clutch was leaking oil and that the repair was urgent. A second opinion was sought; no problem found and I drove the car for another three years without any oil leaking from the clutch.
15 Mar 2012 I took 2004 Echo 4dr Autotrans to dealer for scheduled maintenance. They told me the engine had "sludge" in it & it must be removed or engine replacement would soon result! The radiator, which was leaking, was also replaced(16400-21070)$576.31, 771 CP 1.50 $129.00, Sludge remove 771 CP 7.00 712.00, Cyl Hea Gasket (11213-21011) $23.36, +misc $ Total=$1584.39 Note: previous maintenance 12 Sept 2011
new mass air idle control selinoid
My Check Engine light is on and I need to pass emissions
I checked all the fluid levels and the reservoir was down about a liter and a half. I filled it with water as it would have lots of antifreeze in it for this time of the year.
I checked the Gas cap and it seems fine.
Where is the Mass Air Flow Sensor and how do I clean it.
On this website's estimator there are two services listed: coolant replacement/flush and coolant replacement. What is the difference, and does one need to do a flush?
Mechanic has told me that he has a clear coolant that works when mixed with any other color coolant that had been previously put in the car (i.e., if you're last coolant replacement that was red, you should go with red or use this clear coolant replacement). Is this so or should I go with the color I used last time?
Thanks a bunch--
Have not had transmission fluid changed since buying the car. The car now has 90,000 miles on it. Mechanic says the oil is brown (somewhat dirty) but not black. I've heard that a flush could be dangerous to the transmission when the oil is dark, but that a regular drain and refill will still leave a lot of the old tranny fluid in the transmission since the drain and refill does not get all of the old fluid out. What to do? Get flush or just drain and refill?
Just had my rear main seal replaced because of an oil leak. Should my mechanic have changed the oil while doing this job?
It's been recommended that I get the transmission fluid and filter changed (trans fluid has never been changed and car is at 90,000 miles) to possibly stop an engine oil leak. How could this help the engine oil leak?
Have an oil leak and mechanic reported dye test indicated rear main seal leak. However, I read it could be the PCV valve that needs replacement. Interestingly, after the leak started, my check engine light came on. (I also read that sometimes the PCV valve and the check engine light go hand in hand.) I had the mass air flow sensor cleaned and the light went off. Immediately after that, the car started leaking more oil. Coincidence? Also, is the valve cover gasket the same as the PVC value?
I have a rear main seal oil leak. I live in San Diego and am interested in anyone's recommendation on where to take it here since it's an expensive job and I'm worried about getting the rush. Also, do mechanics usually find other problems when this type of problem occurs or is it a safe bet that they'll just need to put in a new rear main seal?
I need to loosen the timing chain so so I can remove the cylinder head for rebuild.
Other than paying someone to take apart the engine to get to the transmission, any other (cheaper) suggestions? I noticed that the oil seems to drip from the same spot at the bottom of the engine. Wouldn't it be great if someone could invent a cheap device that could be hooked on (like a little metal basket) to that certain part of the engine and then it could collect the oil? I guess it might sound stupid to a lot of mechanics, but I don't know anything about cars. My leak isn't bad, but I don't want it contaminating the environment.
My mechanic told me that he will not use the Toyota brand coolant to flush and change my coolant in my Toyota echo because it has corrosive chemicals (he called the Toyota brand the "red" coolant, but I've only seen green coolant used in my radiator). Does this make sense to anyone? I would think that Toyota would make the right coolant for its cars.
I have never changed the transmission fluid because the Toyota service book does not include an interval at which to change it; I had no idea I was supposed to change the trans fluid until many miles past 60,000. Then I was told that it was risky to change the fluid because if the transmission has too much debris the changing of the fluid could actually cause problems. Also, all the service book says is that a mechanic should check the transmission for leaks.