881
questions

traction light on, brakes and rotor ok. What next?

Hi everyone. I replaced my battery tonight because my car would not start and left me stranded three times in the past few days. After replacing the battery, the car started fine. I left for work tonight and as I was driving, I noticed that the RPM needle was wavering every so slightly the entire time I drove. The check engine light is on. The car is normally very smooth and you don't even hear the engine when it's on, so I immediately noticed that the car was shaking/shuddering the entire time I drove and I could hear that the engine was running louder than normal. I have never had problems with this car and this literally all happened immediately after the battery was replaced. Please help!

I went out to start the car this morning in the garage. The brake pedal seemed stiff and the gear shift wanted to lock. I used the manual button to free the gear shift. When I tried to start the car, the panel lights flicker and dimmed and I got a clicking noise. When I turned off the key, there were some addition noises coming from under the hood...

Can it be unfrozen? Tried to crank it manually, wont turn. Just spent $3000 on it. Told garage to change out oil pump, but they said it didn't need it

have incorrect flo. whats wrong with my car?
i have propane and a lighter will that fix it after all?

I have a 2006 Toyota Avalon. Codes PO455, PO456, PO441, and PO500 came up on my car. Plus it was jerking and stalling in traffic and not wanting to move. What would you say is the resolution to fixing this? Would you say the entire transmission needs to be rebuilt?

I have a 2006 Toyota Avalon. Codes PO455, PO456, PO441, and PO500 came up on my car. Plus it was jerking and stalling in traffic and not wanting to move. What would you say is the resolution to fixing this? Would you say the entire transmission needs to be rebuilt?

I replaced both knock sensors and wire on August 2015 because had code PO 330, everything was fine until yesterday got a code PO 325 , please help and give recommendation and how much will it cost ?

I replaced both knock sensors and wire on August 2015 because had code PO 330, everything was fine until yesterday got a code PO 325 , please help and give recommendation and how much will it cost ?

Me that code.I did some research and if. It was that shouldn't I have some lack of power or back fire I have nothing the car is running great.I just hate to pay alot of money if that isn't it.what do I do?

Suspect it is a sound frequency harmonic. Anyone figure out a way to dampen the vibration in the door controls (power window, power lock, etc.)?

I checked fuses and all are OK . what do I look for and how do I brepair

The only problem I'm having is when coming out of a dead stop. I have to manually shift down to 1st gear to be able to move forward normally. Otherwise, the car accelerates very slowly until it pops into the next gear.

PO125 and PO155 continue to trigger. Thermostat replaced and did not trigger error codes for 24 hours after replacing and putting new antifreeze (red) in the car. Happens only at speeds above 45 mph. Below will not trigger error codes

New thermostat, new o2 sensors, new temp sensor. Around town does not trigger codes only at interstate speeds. The thermostat was last thing replaced and it did fine on the interstate for one day. The next day back to the same two codes. Engine is the six cylinder

So I recently bought a 1995 Toyota Avalon with over 280,000 miles on it. So after getting gas today, my check engine light came on steady. And in addition the O/D OFF light was blinking for the first 40 or 50 miles I drove it after the check engine light came on. So once I made it to my friends house he hooked it up to his scanner and pulled the P1071 code. He cleared it for me, and all seemed well for a good 60 miles or so. Then all of a sudden on my way home the stupid check engine light came on steady again, accompanied by the o/d off light flashing again. The most recent work that was done on the car was $1,000 worth of brake pads, rotors and calipers front and back. Prior to that, I had to fix the missing O-ring under the radiator hose where it connects to the housing unit, because the check engine light came on the first time on me 20 minutes after I purchased the car. And it didn't start 45 minutes after I purchased it. And it over heated on me 4 times on my way home. I bought the car 15 miles from my house! So I'm about a month into this venture and have NO IDEA what this code means exactly or how I need to go about fixing it. BUT I NEED my car!! Hence the reason I bought a car!! LOL So Any idea's would be SUPER helpful and appreciated!!

Their is a turn signal sound coming from behind the ignition and lights blinking in the front

how can i get the display to come back, heater status still works

I drove (slowly) into high water and took water on into the intake and cylinders but it was only for 15 seconds AND i ONLY idled while in the water. I pulled the plugs and , OF COURSE, i had to remove the intake manifold to remove the plugs on the rear side of the moter. I charged the battery and i still Get NO POWER ANYWHERE in the vehicle. I mustve blown a main fuse

It was stolen I got it back and tried to start it it will crank over but no start. I saw a few fuses missing from the engine
Since I got it back from tow yard can't start it at all. It didn't start at the tow yard either

I was told that my Avalon needs lower control arms on both sides followed by alignment (recommended) plus rear sway bar bushing. What kind of cost should I expect? I hope not so expensive...