1,115
questions

It started off as a light vibration when accelerating from stop position. Now its a heavy vibration on flat roads. When on a small hill it is terrible and almost doesn't move. Whatever it is needs to be fixed asap. Thanks in advance for your help

On my 2001 Toyota 4runner 3.4l 4wd, when i brake, it pulls to the right. i brought it to 2 Toyota mechanics and both said it was the ABS pump/booster which cost like $2000 new. I have read online to check the ABS speed sensors, but would those cause it to pull to one side? The brakes work fine but i do avoid hard braking, cause that's when the pulling is more severe.

Would there be any effect if my car engine is over guaged?

My 4WD 4Runner needs brake booster. Repair shop in Salem Oregon wants to charge $760.00 for parts and labor. Is that a fair price?

3.0 Liter

Three bulbs were replaced and will eventually go out again...

It usually happens after it has warmed up but doesn't do it all the time sometimes it's loud sometimes you can barely hear it no check engine light on or any other lights on fluids are all fine no over heating

Under braking the pedal goes down a bit but functions well. I have replace the master cylinder and the booster. Both front calipers replaced.
If I hold pressure (moderate to heavy) on the pedal, when the cars comes to a complete stop the pedal will clink and go down further to the floor.
After it does the brakes seem hyper sensitive. Where as before the seemed more "normal".
I'm down to thinking it has something to do with the ABS system?? Help

Under braking the pedal goes down a bit but functions well. I have replace the master cylinder and the booster. Both front calipers replaced.
If I hold pressure (moderate to heavy) on the pedal, when the cars comes to a complete stop the pedal will clink and go down further to the floor.
After it does the brakes seem hyper sensitive. Where as before the seemed more "normal".
I'm down to thinking it has something to do with the ABS system?? Help

I had a complete transmission rebuild on my car. Before the rebuild the code P0770 came up. Now after a rebuild with new shift solenoids and torque converter it still comes on with same code. The car has 218500 miles when the trans. was rebuilt.

I will supply new wring harnesses.

I just had the transmission put in it's a 4x4 and now it's not going into gear. I changed the slave cylinder. I bled the lines but it still not shifting gears. Can any body help me out

Replacing Compressor and Accumulator but new Accumulator has no visable IN or OUT. Can i tell my looking into the ports which is the IN and which is the OUT? If i get it wrong what will happen?

If I turn it off and back on then it will start! Seems to happen around 80% of the time.

I have changed the transmission fluid and gear oil in transfer case, yet the transmission still overheats, to the point the shifter handle is hot to the touch. I drove approx. 200 miles with a small trailer and 2 kayaks, so not very heavy load.

The outsie shield is rusted off on the drivers side other than that they seam fine should i change them or leave them alone , If i change them can i put gas shocks on instead

Sparkplugs become flooded with fuel at startup ,pressing accelerator while turning engine over allows motor to run but smell of fuel is powerful and exhaust is black.Engine will run but then next day be troublesome again?

Fuel flooding sparkplug at startup.Put gas pedal 2 floor will start but smell of fuel is strong.

belt, has no visual leaks under car