Toyota Questions

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I noticed thick smoke that’s a gray or white color coming out of the exhaust pipe,. Car dealer told me this indicates that my car is burning oil. The only way this could happen is if the oil is leaking into the combustion chamber of my car's engine.

Dealer suspects the piston rings are worn out and the valve seal is broken, this will be what allows oil to flow into the combustion chamber.

abs light, brake light, 4wd light and slip indicator light has come on. do you kmnow why?

No signs at all. and i just changed the oil with 5 litres of toyota oil and oil filter barely 48 hrs ago. No leakage of oil under the engine.
I noticed the oil was almost dry as the time the engine stopped on highway..
i thought the oil did not guage well and I added more 4 litres of toyota oil to it. Still it did not guage.
in total, i have added 9 litres of oil.
the engine did not start.
Please what could be the problem?

Sometimes it needs a little "rev" to get into first. I never have a problem getting into other gears, just first. In the morning the car must be running for 30 mins minimum to get good clean shifts.

Sometimes when it doesn't want to shift i will try to rev it a little to get it to shift. If I just lay on the gas and try to force it, that rarely works. What does work is if I give the gas peddle a little pop. Just a quick rev and it will usually shift.

Just bought the car so no real history. 100% bone stock. The pads are newish. I went to bleed the brakes and the passenger front when I opened the bled valve pressed easy to the floor as fluid came out at a descent rate. I went to bleed the drivers side. Fluid coming out slow. Disconnected the hardline from the flex line at the wheel well and same issue. a little coming out and the pedal is hard to press. ABS module issue? Can it be cleaned? Would a professional flush maybe fix it? What is the next step?

Won't start trs to but wont

? Can I place the cars jack a little to the left or right of the jack points so I place the Jack Stands into position

hello all, I have 94 Toyota pickup 22re. I am having an issue with power loss. when the engine is in park or natural it will idle and rev up fine, but when I hold down the breaks and switch it either into reverse, drive, or low or high gear, the engine will almost die, or sometimes does die. it will usually stay running when I have it in gear but it idles bad and the engine shakes. but when I let off of the breaks when its in gear, shell start to idle a little better, but then when I apply the breaks again, it will start to idle poorly again. I am not sure what it is. I believe I have the timing right, and the houses are fine and are all in there places. not sure whats going on. thought maybe a break booster problem. I've had it for almost three years, it was my first vehicle and ive been working on it for a while. its just this problem is really puzzling me lol. id appreciate some help. thanks for reading.

It just started to happen recently. Mine is a manual transmission. It can be on any surface and will almost not move when on first gear only. Only happens on the first use of the day. thank you

It just stopped holding the speed you choose

Happens mainly in the morning or after my cc at sits for a few. It acts like a car that's cold.

Just bought a used 2007 Toyota Highlander Hybrid from a auto sales business. Vehicle has 130,000 miles and on the way home the dashboard showed the warning message "Check AWD System"

I think this is an oil pump issue

I was told by the Toyota dealership that the reason my Check Engine light would come on and stay on was because of a bad evaporator vsv. What is the usual cost to repair/replace this problem by the dealership or an independent repair with parts and labor?

is because of the Evaporator VSV was bad. What is usually the cost of labor and any parts an independent shop other than the dealership?

Trying to buy tha car but won't start because of antitheft system

everything else works fine. brake light work, runs smooth transition smooth

2007 Toyota Camry

I have not found a box/button/switch of any kind on the dash, under the dash, by the brake pedal, or under the drivers seat. When I unhook the battery for repairs the horn flashes and maybe the lights but I'm to busy to notice as I try to get the key in to turn it off. There is a red light built into the dash that when on you can see in the dark. I have three keys that came with the car and use the Toyota's. I pulled two of the horn fuses but the horn still goes off. Just found there are two horns. The car rearms it self seemingly whenever it feels like it. The only thing that seems to work is to watch for the light coming on and turning it off by turning the key left 3 times then right 3 times . That turns the light/alarm off. Got a remote and it says to just pin 2 to 10 on the power mirror switch then program the remote when the locks cycle. It will be faster than a key if the alarm goes off. Other than that I'm going to check for stuck/shorted door and trunk switches. Anyone have ANY other ideas???.

Can it be bypassed?

Why does it seem like I need power steering fluid

I did a compression test on all six cylinders and had a reading of 160 on five cylinders and 70 on one so I was wondering if i could change just the one head gasket

but the engine is mostly fine

Which belt would it be and can it be tightened.

When warmed up, a hard jarring or hard bump when it shifts up or down in low gears.

Is my van need timing chain replaced.

Is there a fuse or wire that I can check, to make the alarm honk, like it should? The alarm has never worked, since I have had the truck. I read the owners manual, but can't find the answer.

Issue improves after car is warm but rapid increase in rpms due to accelerator press causes initial stumble. Otherwise runs smooth at idle and higher RPMS. Work done already:

- replaced distributor cap, rotor, plugs, and wires.

- cleaned carbeurator and air cleaned hoses and jets

- replaced fuel filter

rough running engine blue smoke overheat shut off oil and water under carriage

early morning 5am, starter engaged and wont stop turning the motor, even when key is removed, and re-engages when battery is reconnected. I disconnected the battery and went to work. After work I connected the battery and Starter did not re-engage. (until) I turned the key and now every time I connect the battery it sparks hard and wants to melt the battery posts if I leave it connected.