Subaru Legacy QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I've checked all the electrical including fuses.Pulled the interior panal to view the auto lock assembly and had someone lock and unlock the door using the outside key lock. All the parts that are supposed to move, move and door won't open.
What do I do next?
It's hard to take the car out of park. It can be done with a little force and turning the steering wheel a little. Once it's in reverse or drive or neutral, it moves just fine. It even moves back into park and out easily as long as I keep the button on the shifter pressed. Is that the solenoid? And yes, I have brake lights
all wheel drivejust happen all of a sudden.when I put the trans in rev I call fell something like it goes in to gear butt nothing happens
There is a small piece that is broken where the roof slides back and then forward. Once open it would not close- I had someone get it closed but it cannot be open again or it will not close properly. I was told the whole frame/mechanism had to be replaced- which is quite expensive
Ok last night it was around -12 with the wind chill and my Legacy wouldn't start. All the lights turn on, AC and heater work, head lights work, moonroof works and car is alive but when I start her she just won't turn over. Any one have any ideas? Car is good condition, always followed routine schedules and has 78k miles. Any help would be appreciated
This happened all at one time.
Bought 96 Subaru from a friend. Ran good and everything, just needed a new rear diff. So I replaced rear diff. and went to start it. It starts, runs up to Idle and then shuts off. And the when this happens the at oil temp. light turns on and then flashes. The only way it will stay running is if I manually keep the rpm's up.
idk what the problem is. ive checked all hoses. everything I can think of that is simple. the AT oil temp light will blink when u start it then if you don't keep the engine at 2k rpms it will die. sometimes it will run on its own for 10 20 even 30 min then it sputters for a few min and poops out. ive heard of a sensor in the tranny that causes this AT temp light but those people had tranny problems too and my tranny works great when the silly thing stays running. any ideas since dealers don't like to give out sensitive info lol
Prior to my purchase, the car has received:
NEW water pump, hoses, head gaskets redone or replaced (sadly, I don't know which) Timing, alternator and belts. The engine has 101,689 original miles.
I notice a burnt oil smell when I get out of the car after driving. Ideas? Oil pump? Seals? Thank You!
220,000 miles, manual transmission. Car worked fine this morning, 5 PM car started fine, can't back it out of driveway without lots of grinding and needing to be heavier on the gas. Feels like brakes are frozen. Can back it with difficulty and forward does the same thing. It is very moist outside, almost like fog, 33 degrees for several days and I did wash the car yest. and underside. Just had oil changed and fluids checked last week. Sway bars due for repair tomorrow.
has 191,782 miles on it.
I changed spark plugs, wires and air filter. Has 191,762 miles on it.
noted when driving a few days ago in drive all seemed well.
shifting to lower gear results in anoisy thump, thump when moving
The button is broken off on the door so the light indicating that door is not closed stays on.
Approaching an intersection the light turned yellow so i hit the brakes pretty hard, not screeching, and the car died. All indicator lights turned on. Checked battery, 12.7 v, so good. Checked 1 spark plug and it seemed fine. 69k. any ideas? i can't find anything online that actually resolves this problem, but i have found others that have had it. thanks.
the clutch adjustment seems right and fluid is topped off. read about backflushing the system. how is this done?
It happens at odd times and not always very strange one time it even beeped which normally happens after 3 clicks on the fob any ideas?
Just got my used legacy with 139000 miles on it looks and runs good.Catylytic is in the error code,but exhaust not smelling or loss of performance. Timing belt one owner vehicle a fair amount of highway miles on it,chg. at 60000 wondering when or how to get it checked honestly etc.Also abs need to get it checked,if the fuse controls pump and I do get a drained battery can I remove fuse and solve problem till I get money> I do not think it is running all the time but reading reviews need to find out how to check etc..thanks Bruce
Manual transmission, To start with the key the clutch has to be in so by popping the cluch that with may not engage
My car was shaking an making noise in the front end especilly toward the front passenger took axle nut off to get to wheel bearing an can't take it out also trying to check tirods an anything else that would make the front end shake I jus bought this car
it just happened, it won't go into any gear at all. I can push the clutch in and i can go through all the gears but nothing happens
After complete tune-up and timing belt change, noticed loss of mpg. CEL indicated knock sensor. Had that replaced. Now 500 miles later, mpg is down to 19-20 (from original 28-30), idle is noticeably uneven, cold or warmed-up, and pretty fumey, sometimes seems to belch into car, occas had strong raw gas smell outside car near driver's door. No CEL indicators on, had it checked by 2 mechanics who couldn't find anything.
It is hard to start in the morning takes a few tries when I push on the gas while idling while it trys to start it dies. Friend told me it could be my fuel filter? ALSO a green power light flashes on sometimes when it shifts gears.
sputters then stops then I can start it back up