i took off the alternator and took it to autozone to have it tested. it failed so i figured i had a bad alternator. Replaced it same day and now it sounds worse. it doesn't sound like it gets spark or proper ignition. no check engine lights on. also noticed a oil leak coming from the oil pressure switch underneath the alternator.

I bottomed out in someone driveway now my gas has been leaking out from bottom of tank is there anything i can do besides getting a new tank that wont cost alot of money

I cleaned out the gutters in the sun roof. I pored water into the gutters and watched the water flow to the ground behind the passengers side front wheel. On the drivers side, I poured water in the gutter of the sun roof and watched the water fall from under the dash to the floor board next to the wheel fender. How do I replace the hose that seems to be missing on the drivers side?

I changed the waterpump, the radiator, the thermostat, and even the radiator cap. It is still running hot when you drive down the road but don't get hot at idle.

Ever since the engine was replaced.

help please

Answer. 408,000 miles still going strong but where is.this Damn sensor the IAT sensor? ??

It always starts in morning.Error codes told me cylinder 3 misfired? 2 other codes and forgot at moment.Will get those this sat.Only 146000 miles on it .Just had timing belt replaced 3000 miles or so ago.Thanks!IfI can get spark plug 3 out that would help I guess,where on engine is cyl . number 3.

So far Ive replaced the spark plugs & wires, fuel filter & air filter & cleaned out the throttle all to no avail It happens at all speeds and is getting worse.

When driving in town (30 MPh or so) my auto outback shifts back & forth between 2nd & 3rd gears. When I get on freeway it won't shift into the lowest gear & stays pinned high in 4000s rpms. When I come to a stop the rpms sometimes Rev up & down like it's gonna die. It also shifts very hard. Sometimes there seems to be no problem except for going on the freeway & not having the car shift into a lower cruising speed gear. I've been told that it could be my torque converter & I'm wondering your thoughts. Thank you.

where is it located?

A few days ago my rear passinger side brakes started making a very loud noise-sort of a grinding. The noise would continue for quite awhile after the brake was off & I was driving. Ive been advised by a friend who test drove it that its probably just a rock stuck in my brakes?

Turns over and only starts sometimes

I bought a 1997 Subaru Outback 1 year ago while my son was temporarily home - so I don't have any repair or service records. It's got about 120k on it
He came home and said it was running poorly.(He got it home.) When I tried to start it it would crank easily but not start.(Battery is OK.) I had it towed to my mechanic and he told me a bolt had broken that holds the tensioner and the timing belt and tensioner needed to be replaced. BUT since it had been driven with the faulty timing belt there was a good chance that there was engine damage. He needs to replace the timing belt and tensioner in order to run the engine to check for more damage. Is it worth it to spend the $700 to replace the timing belt and tensioner to find out if the engine is damaged. Because if the engine is damaged I can't see how it would be worth it to repair the engine damage on a car this old.

I brought my 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback in for repair in the early fall as the timing belt desperately needed to be replaced. Once the mechanic opened the car it was evident that other repairs were needed, all of which we did and finally the car was running nicely again!

Since replacing the timing belt in the fall, I've driven the car for probably a total of 10 hours- one trip from Manhattan to Annapolis, which was four hours there and back, an one trip upstate which was about 2 hours there and back, plus incidental trips around Manhattan and Brooklyn. The other morning (after that drive upstate)the car just wouldn't start. I had it towed back to the mechanic who said that the hydraulic timing tensioner went and the timing belt would have to be replaced all over again AND that he couldn't guarantee that the engine wasn't shot.

My question is, shouldn't the tensioner have been replaced along with the new timing belt in the first place? What kind of responsibility does the mechanic need to take here? On the original replacement he charged me for a full kit.

Someone in another discussion thread said something about getting an insurance accessor to look at the engine. How does one go about that?


The car worked perfectly fine until recently. The fuses/relays at the time looked fine as well.

Looking for a time estimator

a trip from nc to florida and they suggested that I change the timing belt with water pump plus new power steering pump at a cost of 1028 dollars but with no apparent problems showing at present time. Please help.